One of the critical components of your car is the transmission. It is probably the second most important thing after the engine because if the transmission isn’t working right, then the vehicle can not be driven.
One problem that can happen with the transmission is that it might start leaking fluid, and this can occur in a few spots, but for transmission fluid cooler it will most likely happen at the radiator.
In this article, we will explain why your transmission might start leaking at the cooler lines, how to diagnose it, and also how to fix it. Read on to learn everything you need to know about your transmission cooler lines leaking at the radiator.
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Before going into details, we will briefly cover what the transmission cooler lines and radiator are. That way you can locate them easier when looking at your car.
The transmission is responsible for switching the gears of your car, and the transmission fluid goes thru it to keep the gears and moving parts cool and lubricated.
The cooler lines are the tubes or hoses that come off the transmission and into the radiator. The radiator is the ruffle looking thing usually right behind the grill of your car and will have fans attached to it.
It is where the coolant goes into to get cooled off before going back into the different parts of your vehicle. The coolant has to be cool to cool the other components of your car.
So, now that you have a better understanding of what the radiator and transmission so we can move onto diagnosing if you have a transmission cooler line leak.
The first thing that you might notice is that you have wet spots under your car when you move it. This could be a lot of different things though, and your transmission fluid leaking is only one of them.
It could also be oil, condensation, or another liquid. That is why it isn’t a surefire way to know that it is your transmission cooler lines leaking, but it is an important thing to pay attention to, so you can know if you need to look deeper or not.
If you do see liquid under your car, then you need to investigate and see where it is coming from.
One way to investigate is to open up the hood and look under it. Visually inspect all the hoses and see if you can see any liquid coming from any of the connections.
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Most of the time the problem or leak will happen at a connection, but sometimes the hose itself will get damaged. To see if it is transmission fluid leaking you can check all the tubes coming from the transmission.
You can also check the transmission fluid level on some vehicles with a dip stick. If your transmission fluid is low, then it is a sign that it might be leaking. Sometime you won’t have a dipstick though, but can still look at the transmission fluid level in the reservoir and see if it is low there.
You might also be able to feel if your transmission fluid is getting low while driving the vehicle or hear if it is. This is because if your transmission coolant is getting low, then the transmission will most likely start shifting harder.
The lower it gets, the worse the shifting will get. If you drive the car regularly, then you should be able to feel or hear this. If you think your transmission is shifting funny, then it is a good idea to check the fluid.
The last thing that might help you know if your coolant lines are leaking is if the engine coolant is starting to get a reddish color. That is because the transmission fluid could be mixing with the engine coolant and that will lead to a color change. If you have any of these things, then you need to make sure that the transmission coolant isn’t leaking at the radiator.
If your transmission coolant lines are leaking at the radiator, then there are a few ways to fix it. If the lines are old, then you might need to replace the whole line. This is pretty simple. All you do is remove the old line and put the new one in.
This should solve the problem if the old line was leaking from damage. Another way to fix it is to put sealant on the end of the line where it connects. There are a variety of sealants on the market, but you want to make sure you get one specific to transmission coolant lines.
That is beaches you don’t want to damage more things by fixing the problem, and you need a sealant that can handle high heat.
If you don’t want to put a liquid sealant or can’t find one that is working for you, then you can also try adaptors. Some vehicles are prone to having transmission coolant lines that leak, and they have made adaptors to fix the problem.
You remove the line, put the adaptor on, and then put the hose back on. The adaptor is designed to fit the gap and seal it up. You can also use tape on the lines to help seal them up. A Teflon tape that can handle high heat is your best option if you want to go the tape route. There are a lot of ways to fix coolant line leaks at the radiator though, and most are pretty cost effective.
One of the most common times to get a transmission coolant leak at the radiator is when you just replaced the radiator. This is because the hoses may not have gotten connected correctly.
When replacing the transmission coolant line or reattaching it make sure that you attach it right. Don’t cross thread it, which is easily done, because that will cause a leak. Also, if you have just reattached the hose and have a leak, then one last solution before anything else is to loosen it back up and jiggle it some and then tighten it back down again.
The problem might be something as simple as the hose not being seated right and the connection not being tight.
It is important to try not ever to drive your vehicle with low transmission fluid because it will cause significant damage to the transmission. That is why it is essential to stay on top of potential problems before they become more significant.
If you see liquid under your car, then you need to figure out what is causing it and fix the issue. If it is a transmission coolant leak at the radiator, then it is an easy fix. The way you can figure out if that is the issue is to check your transmissions fluid level, pay attention to the shifting, and check the coolant lines going into the radiator.
If you notice a leak, you can replace the line if it is damaged or add sealant or tape at the connection to tighten it up if the line is fine. Now you know how to find, and fix a transmission coolant line leak at the radiator.
So, your lawn mower keeps dying on you. Well, just like anything with a motor, sometime your mower will have issues that cause it to stall and cut off. If you are having that issue with your mower, then you are in the right place.
In this article, we will look at the reasons why your mower might not stay running and also give you the solutions for them. Keep reading to see all the possible reasons why your lawn mower is stalling.
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Before going into an in-depth analysis of each issue, we will list out the potential problems below. That way if you have an idea of what the issue might be you can jump to that section first to save yourself some time.
The reasons why your mower might not stay running can fall into the following areas:
There can be a variety of reasons with the fuel system why your mower might be cutting off. Most of them are pretty simple things and can be fixed easily. The first thing to check with the fuel system is the gas.
If you left gas in your mower for an extended time, then it might not be good any longer. It could have had water condense in it, or it could have evaporated leaving a varnish-like residue.
If you know you left gas setting, then drain the gas from the tank and also the carburetor, then you can add fresh gas. This might solve your problem.
Some of the other issues in the fuel system, which we will cover shortly, can also come about from leaving gas in the system, so it is a good idea to drain the gas if you know that you won’t be cutting for a while.
The next thing that could be wrong with the fuel system that can come about from old gas or happen on its own is dirt and gunk build up. Gunk and deposits can build up in a variety of spots.
The first spot to check is the gas cap itself. Remove the gas cap and see if the mower will stay running without it. If it does, then that means the gas cap vent is blocked.
You will need to clean it out, so air can get thru. After doing that the problem should be resolved. If something else is dirty though and the gas cap is not the issue, then you will have to look farther.
Sticking with airflow, the next thing you can check is the air filter. This should be clean and not have debris or blockage. Also, if it has oil in it, then that is a problem too. If it does have a blockage or is dirty, then you will need to clean it out or replace it.
Air filters are not expensive, so it is a good idea to replace with a clean one regularly or at least clean it out since it is easy to get too. If it is not the air filter that is dirty, then it might be the fuel lines that are dirty.
If that is the case, you will have to drain the fuel and then remove the lines. Remember to drain both the tank and the carburetor. When removing the lines inspect them and see if you see any build up. If you do clean it off or replace the lines.
The issue may be in the carburetor itself though. It might be the thing that is dirty. If you are draining the fuel, then go ahead and take the time to check the carburetor. See if you can see any build up of gunk or deposits in it.
If you do be sure to clean it. Also, remove the fuel filter from the carburetor and see if it is dirty. If it is then clean or replace it as well. Same as the air filter, the fuel filter is pretty easy to get to and is cheap, so stay on top of replacing it and making sure it is clean. This will keep other parts of your mower running longer.
When cleaning the carburetor, it is essential to do it properly. You should use carburetor cleaner and spray it down thoroughly. Sometimes though even the cleaner won’t be able to get all the build up off. This is because fuel residue can be hard to remove.
If you can’t get the carburetor clean, then you can rebuild it with a kit from your mower manufacturer. Sometimes though it isn’t worth it to rebuild. This may be because you don’t have the time or the skills to do it.
If that is the case, then you can just buy a whole new carburetor and replace the old one. No matter if you are cleaning, rebuilding, or replacing the carburetor be sure to clean out the fuel lines as well.
The next reasons why your mower might not stay running could come down to the ignition system. This is similar to the fuel system and could be lumped in there. The ignition system for our purposes is where the spark occurs to ignite the fuel and provide power to the mower.
The part of the ignition system that we are worried about is the spark plugs. Old wore out, and dirty spark plugs can lead to the engine dying. They may work good enough to start the mower, but then misfires might start to happen leading the mower to shut off. If you hear misfires, then checking the plugs should be one of the first things you do.
To make sure the plugs are good you first need to pull them from the engine. Next, you can visually look at the electrode. If it looks dirty, then you can try cleaning it with an emery board, but if the electrode is already too thin, then you will need to replace that plug.
Also, it is a good idea to replace all the plugs if you are replacing one, so you know that they are all good. The electrode might not be dirty though, but the problem could still be the spark plug. If the gap on the plug is too big or too small than that can be an issue too.
You will need to look up the specifications for your mower and the gap it should be and then use a gapping measure to measure the gap. If it is off, then you need to replace the plugs.
The last area that can cause your mower to stall while mowing is in the cutting system. What we mean is if you are cutting thick or tall grass, then it might be bogging down the blades and causing the engine to stall.
If you can tell that the mower is having trouble cutting on the level you have it set too, then you will need to raise the deck. If raising the deck doesn’t help, or the grass isn’t that tall or thick, then the problem might be in the blades themselves or under the deck.
If the blades are dull, then they will not cut well, and that can lead to the mower stopping. You will need to get under the deck and remove the blades to sharpen them. Once they are sharp, that should solve the problem.
If your blades are sharp though, then they might be getting bogged down for another reason. That other reason is you could have a lot of grass built up under the deck. If that is the case, you will need to get under it and clean it out.
If you are sharpening the blades or cleaning the deck, then you should go ahead and do both things since you are already under there. It doesn’t take that long to remove the blades to sharpen them if you are already cleaning under the deck and it doesn’t take that long to clean under the deck if you are already sharpening the blades.
By doing both, it will save you time later and make sure you get the best cut possible.
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So, after reading this, you now know all the possible reason why your mower won’t stay running and also the solutions for them. The issue could be in air flow or fuel flow. In either case, you will need to clean those systems out.
It can also be due to bad ignition. If that is the case, you will need new spark plugs. Lastly, it might just be that the blades are dull, under the deck is dirty, or the grass is too thick and not be a mechanical issue at all. If it is from that, then you will need to sharpen the blades and clean under the deck or raise the deck.
Luckily most of the reasons why your mower is stalling are easy fixes if you know what to check, and now that you have read this you do, so you are well on your way to fix your mower that is dying and not has to worry about the engine stopping in the middle of cutting again.
Lawn mowers have a lot of parts and in the big picture work very similarly to cars. One of those parts is the voltage regulator. This part is similar to the alternator in a vehicle. The voltage regulator helps make sure the proper amount of charge is going back into the battery while the mower is running.
In this article, we will cover how to test a voltage regulator on a lawn mower to ensure that it is working properly. We will explain the steps involved and also when you might need to test it.
More: If you must replace the battery for your lawn mower, this is the best lawn mower battery for you.
Before getting into how to test the voltage regulator, we will briefly explain when you might need to test it. The main reason you would need to test the voltage regulator is if your battery kept dying and you already had the battery tested to make sure it was good.
If you keep ending up with a dead battery but know that it is a good battery, then it is time to test the voltage regulator.
There are a couple of ways to test the voltage regulator, and we will explain both of them. Both ways are similar and do the same thing, so depending on your lawn mowers layout one might be easier to do than the other.
The first way to test the voltage regulator is thru the battery. The only tool you will need is a multimeter or voltmeter. Then follow the simple steps below.
If the reading did not change, then that means that the voltage regulator isn’t working and needs to be replaced or repaired.
You can also test the battery thru the voltage regulator itself if you can get to it. You can do that also with just a voltmeter or multimeter and by following the following steps.
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These are the two main methods for testing your voltage generator on your mower. Both methods are easy to do and can be done fast with just one tool.
All you need is a multimeter or voltmeter and to make sure you follow the steps provided. The key is to make sure you connect the meter right. Make sure the positive is connected to positive and negative to negative. Then start the mower and see if the voltage jumps or you get a reading.
After reading this, you can easily test your mower voltage generator and see if it is working like it is supposed too or if it is the cause of your repetitive dead mower batteries.
In a manual or otherwise known as standard transmission car, there is the clutch. The clutch is connected to the extra pedal that is normally on the far left side.
Sometimes the clutch doesn’t always function properly. In this article today we will explain what the clutch does and also one of the problems that can come about which is it getting stuck or not disengaging.
Your clutch can not disengage for a few reasons which we will explain here, and we will also discuss the solutions to these problems. Read on to find out why your clutch gets stuck and what to do about it.
More: When the car is not used much, the battery can begin to lose charge because its not charged by the alternator. This is a common occurrence of classic cars that are only used on weekends . To keep the battery fully charged, you need the best battery tender for your car.
First, before getting into why the clutch might not disengage, we will cover what the clutch is. It will help to understand briefly what the clutch does before we get into why it might not work.
The clutch is what connects the engine to the transmission. When the car is running and moving the clutch is engaged. The clutch is a pressure plate that is hooked to the flywheel that puts pressure on the drive plate.
When you step on the clutch pedal, it moves this plate out of the way for a moment so you can shift gears. When you shift gears, it literally moves the old gear out of place and a different into place. The clutch then reengages when you lift off the pedal, and the plate connects with the new gear.
So, now that you have the basic understanding then it will probably make sense to you that when the clutch isn’t disengaged all the way, then part of the plate is rubbing against the gears when you are trying to change gears.
Also, if the clutch is only partly engaged, then it will cause rubbing and friction. This causes the friction material to burn up and get wasted. It will also cause heat which will lead to wear and tear.
Eventually, the different bearings will wear out due to pressure and twisting forces and the system will break completely. This is bad, that is why if your clutch is slipping or not disengaging all the way you need to get it fixed as soon as you notice the problem.
So, now you are probably asking yourself what can cause the clutch to slip or not disengage. Well, there are four main things that can cause your clutch to slip. They are
These are the common reasons, and we will look at each one in more detail if you keep reading.
The most common reason for issues with your clutch is a stretched or broken clutch cable. The clutch cable is what connects the pedal to the clutch and tells the car to pull the clutch out of the way when you step on the clutch pedal. Luckily it is easy to check the clutch cable and replace it if it needs to be replaced.
For checking the clutch cable, all you need is a jack, flashlight, and some things to block the wheels off. A jack stand and googles also help for safety but aren’t needed.
The key when checking the clutch cable has put the car in park or first gear and engage the parking brake. Block the rear tires off and jack the front end of the car up.
Find the cable that is leading from the clutch and to the clutch pedal. Use the flashlight and visual look at it. See if it is tight or if it has slack. Also, make sure it isn’t coming apart or broke.
If it is loose or visible broken, then you need to replace it. All you do is unhook it from the clutch and the pedal and put the new one in. If the cable isn’t the problem, you can move to the next possible issue.
The next most common thing is a hydraulic leak in the clutch system. Luckily this one is pretty easy to check, especially if you are already down under the car.
To check look for any liquids under the car especially around the clutch. Also, pay special attention to the slave cylinder and make sure it isn’t leaking.
Check the rubber boots to make sure the seal hasn’t failed and checked the hydraulic lines. After checking under the car, you can lower it and check under the hood.
Look at the master cylinder and see if there are any leaks. Also, check all the seals and lines from above as well. If you find any leaks, then the damaged parts will have to be replaced. You want to make sure there is no hydraulic fluid or oil coming from anywhere.
Depending on the part of the hydraulic system that is damaged and your experience you might be able to replace it yourself, or you might have to get a shop to do it.
The good thing is about checking it yourself though is you save the labor cost on that and can tell the repair shop exactly what is wrong with it so your vehicle can get repaired faster and cheaper. If the hydraulic system appears fine though, then you will have to start looking at the clutch alignment.
The clutch alignment or linkage may not be right, and this can cause it to slip or not disengage all the way. This issue can be a little harder to check, but you want to look under the car again for this.
You will jack it up the same way as already described. To see if the alignment is right you will want to look at the pin and cotter pin on the clutch linkage and clutch pedal.
If these are loose or in the wrong position, then they will need to be adjusted. You also want to make sure that the adjusting nut is tight. If it isn’t than tighten it down.
Outside of those couple things, it is hard to do anything to the adjustment yourself unless you are experienced. If you are experienced, you can try to make sure the plate is in the right position, but if you are not skilled with cars than you should just take your vehicle to a mechanic and let them look at the clutch.
If you think you have a clutch alignment issue and have checked the other things, then just let a shop take care of it because you can cause more harm than good working on it yourself if you don’t know what you are doing.
The last issue of incompatible parts is also another common problem. This is especially true if you tried to upgrade something on your own and don’t have a lot of experience.
Sometimes, especially if you buy something online, it will say it is compatible, but really it isn’t. If you have recently redone your clutch system and then start having issues, then there is a good chance the part you used wasn’t the right size.
To fix this, you can take it to a mechanic and let them use the right parts or try to find a different part that is compatible. When upgrading or working on your clutch save all the material when installing something new in case it doesn’t work, and you need to return it and also try your best to get matching parts or buy somewhere that guarantees the compatibility of the new parts.
A clutch that won’t disengage is a major issue. It causes the clutch to wear out faster and can also lead to unsafe driving conditions. That is why if you have a clutch that is slipping or not disengaging it is important to check it out right away.
Now you know the four common causes of a clutch that won’t disengage, and that is a stretched or broken clutch cable, a hydraulic leak in the clutch system, an out of alignment linkage or incompatible aftermarket parts.
Most of these issues are easy to solve and now know how to diagnose each of them and know what to do about them to fix them. After reading this, you are well on your way to get your stuck clutch fixed and car driving safely again.
Your car can produce a variety of smells while running. The smells that your car makes aren’t always good either. Some of the smells that can be produced are burning smells, and one of those burning smells is burning plastic.
You may be having this smell from your car and be wondering what is causing it. Well, read on to find out the different causes of a plastic burning smell from your car and also how to solve them.
Determining when the burning smell occurs is one effective method to determine why it is occurring. For instants, some burning smells happen when you first start the car, while other burning smells occur when you turn on certain components of your car or do certain things.
It is important to pay attention to when the burning smell starts because that can help you figure out why it is happening. With burning plastic smells a lot of times it will occur when you turn on your car’s heater or other electrical devices.
If the bad smell starts when you turn on the heater, then there is a good chance that the smell is coming from the heater. If you haven’t used the heater in a while, then the smell might just be dirt and dust burning off.
If that is the case, then it will go away after a little use. Once the dust and dirt have burned off, then the bad smell will stop. If the bad smell doesn’t stop though or if it occurs even when you have already been using your heater, then it is coming from something else.
One of the common other things with the heater that could be causing the smell is you might have gotten some plastic debris, such as a bag stuck in the heater system.
You should check under the hood, in the engine area, and up under your car to make sure that no plastic bags are stuck anywhere. A bag that is stuck could be melting as you drive.
There are a lot of plastic bags on the road, and it is easier than you might think to get one stuck up under your car. Outside of the burning smell that is annoying, it is important to get the bags removed as soon as possible because it can damage other parts of your car.
A plastic bag can get stuck in a fan or cause something to overheat, so if you smell burning plastic, then it is a good idea to check for bags.
Lastly, burning smells from the heater could be coming from a broken heater or another component near the heater. If you check for a plastic bag and don’t find it, but have a burning smell, then you need to take the car to a shop and have a thru inspection done. When come to shop, you should ask the shop using best battery tender for car storage to recharge your battery if it need.
For instance, you might have antifreeze leaking and it burning off smells like plastic. Also, a heater component could be melting, and this could smell like plastic too.
If you have a burning smell coming from the heater and you have clean it, then it is a good idea to have it checked out to make sure nothing serious is wrong.
If you have a burning plastic smell when you turn on something else besides the heater, then it is probably an electrical short. This happens when the plastic coating on wires, fuses, or other connections wear off or burn off.
The issue is with whatever system you turned on when the burning smell starts. For instance, if you start to use your power windows and the smell starts, then it is the window system that has the short.
The reason why these occur is that the electrical wires get hot when you use the components. This heat is hot enough to melt the wire coating sometimes, and this melting is the smell that you smell.
The wire coating is easier to melt as it gets older. This is especially true if the wire coating gets cracked or damaged. That is because the wires inside can be exposed to things that it is not supposed to and heat up easier or cause a spark.
The good thing is that if the burning smell is occurring from an electrical short, then all you have to do is replace those wires. The hardest part with electrical issues is tracking them down though.
That is why it is extremely important to pay attention to what you are doing when the bad smell starts. The better you are at paying attention to what system is causing the smell, the more money you will save on fixing it.
It can take a lot of time looking at the electrical system if you can’t give the mechanic an idea of what part of the car to start looking at to find the short.
Bad smells can come from your car for a variety of reasons, and there can be a variety of bad smells. After reading this though, you now know what causes bad burning plastic smells and how to fix them.
You know that if you have a burning plastic smell, it is very important to pay attention to what you turned on in your car when the smell started because that will make fixing it either.
A lot of times it will be your heater or another electrical component. If it was something besides the heater than it is a short in a wire and you just have to replace the wires.
If it was the heater however then it could be a few things. If could be dirt burning off or a plastic bag that is stuck. If the heater has been running for a while though and you have checked it for a plastic bag, then it might mean a bigger component is broke.
You will need a mechanic to look at it to make sure it isn’t leaking antifreeze or that a vent or the motor isn’t melted. A mechanic will find the problem if it is one of those things and you can have it fixed. The key is to stay on top of things if you have a burning plastic smell and don’t ignore it or things could get worse.
Their are a variety of reasons why you might remove your battery from your car, boat, mower, or other equipment with a battery. It could be to charge it or to replace it.
Well, no matter why you removed the battery it brings up a common question when you go to put the battery back in and that is why wire to connect first.
Their is a debate amongst people on if you should connect the positive wire or the negative wire first. Well, after reading this article you will have an answer and reasoning to this question.
So, which terminal should be connected first when reinstalling a battery. Some people say it doesn’t matter because no circuit is being made when only one wire is connected.
While that is true that not circuit is being made thru the battery, it is still possible to complete the circuit. That is why the answer to which wire to connect first is the positive wire. By the way, if you are intending recharge your car battery, i think you should have the best battery tender to do it, it will keep your battery in good condition.
The reason you connect the positive first is that the negative is the ground wire. You don’t want the ground wire to be connected first because then the circuit will be completed as you try to connect the positive which could lead to sparks.
These sparks could shock you or worse short out the battery or other components. That is why it is important to make sure that the positive is connected first.
With the positive connected, then when you go to connect the ground sparks will not occur because it will go into the ground wire. This will keep you safe as you connect the wires and also keep the components in your vehicle or equipment safe.
This same question also doesn’t always come about when reconnecting a battery, but instead when jumping a battery. When jumping a battery also want to make sure that you connect the positive clamp first and then the negative clamp.
This is for the same reasoning as when reconnecting the battery. It keeps sparks from happening and shorts from happening. This applies to the good battery as well as the dead battery.
When disconnecting the battery or jumper cables it is the opposite. You disconnect the negative first and then the positive.
Their are a variety of times when you need to connect a battery into your car or other piece of equipment such as a mower or boat. When you need to connect the battery it is important to connect the positive first and then the negative.
This keeps you safe as well as the equipment safe. You might have heard that it doesn’t matter, but after reading this you can not see that it does.
A circuit can be made when connecting the battery be it the wires touching something or the tools that you are using. If it is already grounded and the positive wire touches something than a spark will occur. This won’t happen if it is the other way around though.
Reconnecting your battery isn’t the only time that you will be connecting wires to your battery however. It is important when jumping a battery and connecting jumper cables to also remember to connect the positive terminal first.
This applies to the good battery and the dead one. It is a good habit to always connect the positive first and then the negative and when disconnecting to disconnect the negative first and then the positive.
After reading this you now know the answer to which battery cable to connect first.
So, your car is sputtering when you start it. Well, you are in the right place. In this article, we will look at all the possible reasons why a car might sputter when starting it and the solutions for them.
There is a whole lot of potential reasons why your car might be sputtering when you first start it, but after reading this article, you will know how to troubleshoot it and also know what to do to fix the problem.
Read on to learn more about why your car might sputter when you start it.
There are all kinds of reasons why a car might sputter when you start it and then be fine after it gets going. Before going into detail about the reasons we will list them out for you, so if you think a particular problem causes yours, then you can start their first.
The main reasons why a car might sputter when you start it are:
These are the main problems, and we will look at each one in-depth below.
The first problem could be that you have a weak battery. If the battery is just charged enough to turn the car over, then the engine might sputter at first before it gets going.
Once the engine is running, then it doesn’t require as much power from the battery, and that is why it might even out. Also, once the engine is running, it starts to charge the battery with the alternator.
If the sputtering was from a weak battery, then it will probably only happen once, because after driving the battery will get charged. If the battery is not holding a charge though, then it could keep causing the car to sputter when you start it.
To see if the battery is weak turn on your headlights before starting the car and if they are dim, then the battery is weak. Try charging it or testing the battery to see if you need a new one. Replacing the battery will fix the sputtering if that is the problem.
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The next thing that could cause your car to sputter when starting is bad or dirty spark plugs. This is because it takes a spark to ignite the fuel to get the engine going and if the spark plugs are dirty, then it may not be giving enough of a spark causing a rough start.
As the engine is going, it may not be as easy to notice the sputtering from all the other engine noise. You can change or clean your spark plugs if you think that is what is causing the sputtering and if it is, then the sputtering will stop after doing that.
The fuel injectors could also be dirty which could lead to not enough fuel being squirted into the cylinder. Cleaning them is also a good idea if you think the issue is happening when the fuel is being ignited.
All kinds of sensors are also involved when starting the car. You have the oxygen sensor, the mass airflow sensor, and the fuel injection sensor.
If any of these are dirty or going bad, then you will not get a proper mixture of gas in the cylinder when going to start the car. This will lead to the sputtering when you start it.
Clean all the sensors and make sure that they are not the problem. If the problem continues after cleaning or replacing them, then it was something else. Tied into the dirty sensors is a clogged air filter.
If the air filter is overly dirty and the proper amount of air can’t pass thru, then it will lead to sputtering issues. Replace the air filter or clean it to make sure that enough air is getting thru.
The next thing could be that you have a failing fuel pump. The fuel pump is what moves the gas from the tank to the cylinders. If it is getting weak, then it might not be moving the proper amount of gas thru.
Also, if it is the fuel pump, then you may have sputtering when your gas is low, but not when it is full. One way to see if it is the fuel pump is to spray propellant into the cylinder as you go to start the car.
If it starts fine with that, then you can bet that it is the fuel pump going out and needing to be replaced.
The next thing that can cause a sputtering is an exhaust leak. The exhaust leak can be anywhere. It can be at the manifold or farther along under the car.
Exhaust leaks are noisy and also dangerous as the exhaust is hot and can melt surrounding plastics or come into the vehicle. Leaking gaskets on the engine can also cause sputtering because it can affect the fuel mixture.
Exhaust leaks can be found by hooking up a blower into the tailpipe and then spraying the exhaust down with water. Anywhere that bubbles there is a leak and it needs to be fixed.
Another part of the exhaust process is the catalytic converter, and if you have one that is failing, then it can cause the engine to sputter.
That is because clean gasses are not countering the gasses that the engine is putting off and some might be going back into the engine causing it not to run smoothly.
If your catalytic converter is going out, toxic gases may also be going into the cabin of the vehicle. It is a good idea to have the catalytic converter replaced if it is failing.
The last potential thing we will look at is a bad ignition switch. If the switch is not working right then, it might not be sending the right signal to the engine to turn it over all the way.
This can lead to sputtering when you go to start it because the proper amount of charge isn’t being applied. This is one of the last things to check though because if it is the ignition switch, then most likely the car won’t start at all.
So, with all these possible causes for a car sputtering when starting, how do you know where to start with fixing the problem? Well, most of these issues will cause a check engine light to come on.
If your check engine light is on, then you should use an OBDII scanner and read the code. You can then look up what the code means and start with fixing whatever problem is being given.
The only think on here that probably won’t send code is a weak battery so if you don’t have a code, then start with the battery first. Everything else will cause a code, and then you will know what to fix from there.
A sputtering car on start can be annoying because there are so many things that could be wrong with the car. Luckily most of the fixes are affordable ones and won’t cause you to have to get a new car.
Just check the engine code and see what the problem is and then replace or clean the bad part. A vehicle that sputters when starting is a pretty simple problem to fix and while annoying it won’t cause you to have to miss work.
Just be sure to deal with it as soon as you can because a sputtering car is losing gas mileage and could be putting toxic gasses into your vehicle. Luckily now you know everything you need to know when it comes to your car sputtering when starting it.
When it comes to charging something, mainly a battery, there are a variety of type/method that can be used. Each type has its positives and negatives. In this article, we will discuss the common basic charging types.
Read on to learn the different charging types that are possible as well as what sets them apart. We will give details so you understand what is going on with each type and also when or why you might want to use a particular type.
Before going into deep detail, we will list out the nine basic charging types. Each one has a purpose, and if you want to learn about a particular one, then you can jump straight to it. The main charging types are:
The first type of charging a battery we will look at is a constant voltage. A constant voltage does what the name implies and provides a constant voltage to the battery.
These types of chargers are generally cheap and simple. In the simplest form, a constant voltage charger can be a DC (direct current) power supply with a step-down transformer that rectifies the power.
You can use this type of charger for both lead-acid cells as well as lithium-ion cells. However, the lithium-ion charger is normally a bit more advanced for the safety of you and the battery. The reason why these are good is that they are cost-effective, but there are better options.
The next type of charging is a constant current. This is similar to constant voltage because it keeps one aspect of the charging constant, but this time it is the current or flow of electricity thru the battery at the constant.
The way it does this is that it changes the voltage, so the current coming out is always equal. When the battery gets fully charged it is able to stop charging.
Most of the time this type of charging is used for nickel-metal hybrid cells and nickel-cadmium batteries. The reason this type of charger is good is that it stops charging when the battery is full, but other types can also do this and work better for certain types of batteries.
The next type of charging is taper current. This type can damage batteries very easily. You can get away with it with some SLA batteries, but it is a good idea to keep an eye on the charging of your battery.
This is because the taper current does not provide a constant voltage. It is a crude type that sends in a voltage that causes the current to diminish as the cell voltage builds up.
The voltage going into the battery is unregulated. This charging should not be used except for the last resort because there are better and safer options.
The next type is a very good type to help extend your battery life, and that is pulse charging. As the name suggests, the energy goes into the battery in pulses.
The current goes in as a pulse, and you can set how long of pulse period you want. Normally it is around 1 second. Then, you have 20 milliseconds to 30 milliseconds of rest between pulses.
This resting period allows the battery to stabilize. By stabilizing it means that the battery is able to equalize the reaction across most of the electrodes before the next charge pulse comes in.
By being allowed to stabilize it allows the chemical reaction to keep pace with the incoming charge. This prevents unwanted chemical reactions at the electrode surface such as gas being formed.
It also prevents the formation of crystals and passivation. This type is good for any battery.
The next type of charging is burp charging which expands on pulse charging. It is just like pulse charging, but with an added step. Before the next pulse goes in, with burp charging it sends a discharge pulse in.
This depolarizes the cells and helps to eliminate any gas bubbles that have built up. The releasing of the gas bubbles is known as burping. Other names for this type of charging are reflex or negative pulse charging.
This type of charging is supposed to extend battery life more and allow for faster charging, but there is no conclusive evidence of this. The only evidence is that burp charging can’t hurt a battery, so it doesn’t hurt to try it if you are a fan of pulse charging.
The next kind of charging is a newer type for lead-acid batteries, and that is IUI charging. This type is not for all lead-acid batteries, so you want to make sure yours is compatible.
IUI charging is done in stages, and the first stage is bulk charging where it is charged at a constant rate until it reaches a preset point where gases start to form.
When it reaches this point the charger switches into a middle phase that provides a constant voltage and the current drawn by the battery will slowly drop until it reaches a particular point and the current drops at a diminishing rate.
Once it reaches this second preset point the battery switches back to a constant current mode and charges the battery to a higher preset point until it reaches that and then the charger shuts off completely.
This final charge helps stabilize the battery and makes sure that the cells are equally charged ensuring longer battery life.
The next type, trickle charging, is designed for battery maintenance. This type is not for bringing a battery back from being dead but is instead designed to keep a battery that is not in use charged.
With trickle charging a small current is applied to the battery at the rate that the battery is discharging. This keeps it charged and ready to go and helps keep chemicals from building up on the inside of the battery hurting its life.
Some charges automatically switch to a trickle charge mode when a battery is fully charged. You can’t use this charging on all batteries though. You shouldn’t use it on NiMH or lithium because they are easily overcharged.
The next type is similar to trickle charge in that it does not overcharge the battery. Float charging is mainly used on lead-acid batteries, and it holds the voltage of the battery at a point that is below the maximum charge.
It is for emergencies mainly and is good for battery backup. The way it works is the battery and load are permanently connected in parallel across the DC charging source.
The last type is a random charge. This is when a random charge is applied to something. This is because the power is coming from a source that can’t be controlled completely.
For example, the alternator works based on how fast the engine is going, so it provides a different charge at different times. Another instance is solar power where the sun is at different levels at different times.
The random charge is pretty common but generally isn’t used for charging batteries in most cases.
The best battery tender also help you recharge and maintain battery by the great way. You should read about it.
So, now you know all the basic types for charging a battery. You know the nine common battery charging types and how they work.
You also now know the benefits and negatives of each one. Whenever you need to charge a battery, you should be able to pick out the best battery charging type for your needs.
There are a few different kinds of car batteries on the market today, but they all work in the same way. All car batteries are 12-volt, and they are arranged in cells that are around 2-volts each. The six cells are made up of plates and acid.
This is how they store and transfer power. Due to the way they are made they won’t last forever because natural breakdown occurs in them. Read on to find out the average life of a car battery and also learn ways to extend the life of the battery.
On average a car battery will last two to five years, but most last around four years. Sometimes a battery might be near the end of its useful life but still give you a little longer.
Also, if you take care of your battery and try to limit things that put a strain on the battery it will help it live longer. One other way to get more life out of the battery is to buy a better one to start with. Cheaper batteries are cheaper for a reason, and the plates that are used inside aren’t as good as on more expensive batteries.
The easiest way to keep you batteries alive is recharge it, the best battery tender is wonderful tool to do that. You should buy it.
So now that you know the average life of a car battery we can look into why a battery stops working over time. Well, from the first time you start your car with a new battery build up begins to occur on the plates.
This sulfuric acid buildup causes the electrons in the battery to stick to the plate and not move thru the battery. The build-up on the plate also deteriorates them.
This break down of the plates causes them not to transfer energy as well. Over time this buildup becomes too much, and the damage to the plates becomes too much, and the battery stops working.
When charging the battery, you are reversing this buildup of the sulfuric acid on the plates. This is because the charger puts a small vibration into the battery and it breaks the crust off the plates.
By breaking this crust off it not only restores the electrons back into the acid and water solution that is inside the battery, but it also slows down the breakdown of the plates.
That is why it is so important to keep a battery charged. If you keep a battery charged it would help the plates last longer and in turn will allow the battery to last longer.
Outside of keeping the battery charged there are a few other things that can reduce the life of a battery. One of those is similar to the charging aspect, and that is letting a battery sit for long periods without being used.
Long periods of sitting allows the sulfuric acid to build upon the plates and this causes it to break down. Also, when the electrons aren’t moving, they kind of settlement to the bottom or get stuck in the buildup and stop wanting to move.
When you drive a car, the alternator charges it helping keep the electrons active, but if the battery sits the buildup on the plates get too much, and the electrons become sluggish.
Driving the car on short trips though may do more harm to the battery then good though when it comes to the life of the battery. This is because it takes a lot of energy to get the car started and if you don’t drive long enough to recharge the battery, then the battery will get weaker and weaker with every start.
Also, short trips will lead to more sulfuric acid crust on the plates, and if you don’t drive the vehicle long, then that crust will not have a chance to get broken off. Also, the solution will break into two parts.
A light part and a heavy part. The heavy part will have to do all the work to keep the car going because the light part won’t have any electrons. This puts a strain on your battery.
Temperature is another major factor in how long a battery will last. Warm temperatures will cause the buildup on the plates to occur faster. This is because heat accelerates the chemical reaction.
The opposite happens if you live in a cold place. Since it is colder, the chemical reaction of crust forming on the plates will be slower, but if cold areas the solution is more likely to separate like was mentioned in the previous part.
That is why for longest battery life it is best to live in an area with moderate and consistent temperatures. Extreme temperature changes can be hard for the battery to deal with.
However, the temperature is partially out of your control, but it is just something you have to deal with and remember when choosing a place to live.
The last thing that can shorten battery life is by not having a battery that is properly secured or driving on bumpy roads. If the battery is not secured tightly, then shifting can cause the plates to get damaged.
This is especially possible if you drive on a lot of bumpy roads. Bumps can cause the battery to jar, and this can damage the plates inside. Also, vibration over time of the battery can lead to damage inside. Especially as the plates corrode, they will become brittle, and the vibration can break them ending the life of the battery.
So now that you know some of the cases of shortening a car batteries life we can look at ways to increase the life of the battery. The first is pretty simple, and that is use accessories less.
Having chargers plugged in, and other things will drain the battery faster. If the battery gets drain more than it is being charged while driving, then the life will be affected.
Also, limit the use of the radio and things when dealing because the battery isn’t being charged then, and the extra draw puts a strain on the battery.
Lastly, related to this tip is make sure all the lights are off when you leave the vehicle. If they are not, then the battery will die completely and need jumped and recharged. This will shorten the life of a battery, especially if it occurs regularly.
Talking about charging the next thing to do to keep a battery lasting is charge it regularly and make sure it stays fully charged. This has already been mentioned, but the part that hasn’t been mentioned is having the battery tested consistently.
By testing the battery, you can make sure it is getting charged all the way and also see how effective it is running. This will help let you know when your battery is nearing the end of its life. You can use a battery tester or an best automotive multimeter to test the battery.
Regulating the battery temperature is another way to help it last longer. You can get a sleeve to put around the battery. This sleeve helps keep the battery warm in colder times and then helps keep it cool in the warmer times.
It does this by providing insulation, but also a shield from heat. The cover goes around the battery, kind of like a sock, and it helps it last longer.
The last thing you can do to keep a battery running longer is to clean the battery regularly. If you see corrosion forming on the nodes, then clean it off.
Also, some batteries need water added to them, so it is important to do that regularly to keep the battery running right. The last thing to do when cleaning the battery and checking it is to make sure that it is tightened down all the way to prevent shifting and damage that comes from that while driving.
So, after reading this, you now know that an average life expectancy of a car battery is two to five years with most lasting around four. You also know things that reduce the life of the battery so you can minimize those things and you know the things you can do to help keep your battery working longer. Using the tips here you should be able to get the most life possible out of your car battery.
When driving your car should go straight and smoothly. This means that in theory on a straight road you should be able to let go of the wheel and your car will stay straight.
This doesn’t always work in practice because the road is not smooth and has bumps that will cause the vehicle to turn off, but the vehicle should not shack while driving.
A lot of different things can be the case with your vehicle shaking while driving. Keep reading to learn some of the things that could cause your car to shake at low speeds and some solutions for the issues.
Before going into in-depth detail about each thing we will provide a list of the possible issues, so if you have an idea of what might be wrong, you can jump to that section first.
Some of the main things that can cause your car to shake at low speeds are:
Depending on what the problem is it can be an easy thing to fix, or it can be more in-depth. Now we will look deeper into each potential problem and explain how to diagnose it and provide a solution for it.
The tires are the first thing to consider when trying to figure out why your car is shaking at low speeds. There are a few different things that could be wrong with the tires, but each is a pretty simple solution.
The first thing when trying to figure out if the tires are the cause of the shake is to examine the tires. You want first to make sure they have a good amount of treed on them.
If the tires are wearing out and loosing treed, then they may not be gripping the road good which can cause shake.
The next thing when looking at the treed is to make sure the wear is even. If the wear is not even, then this can be an indication of the tires needing balanced or aligned.
The treed not being wore even can also be a sign of some other issues, but it is best to start with having the tires balanced and aligned to see if that fixes the problem.
To know if the treed is not wearing evenly you can look for flat spots on one part of the tire and not the others. Also, cupping can occur where one part of the treed is lower then the other making it appear like a bowl.
To have the tire balanced, you will need to take it to a shop so they can put it on a machine and make sure the weight is distributed right. Balancing the tires keeps them from wobbling.
The wobble can cause the car to shake. When having the tires balanced, you should also have them aligned. Making sure the tires are correctly aligned will help keep the car in the straight path that was mentioned early.
Since the car won’t pull, it will not shake, and the tires will wear evenly. If the tires are too unevenly wore compared to the others, then you might have to get a new set to fix the shaking problem entirely or with time after rotating, balancing, and aligning the tires might wear themselves back to an even pattern.
The next thing to consider when you have a car that shakes at lower speeds is the brake system. This is especially true if the wobbling or shaking happens while braking.
A few different things can go wrong with the brakes that can cause the car to shake. The main thing that can lead to shaking is a brake rotor that is out of round.
If the brake rotor wears unevenly from the car not being balanced or aligns right, then it can lead to high points on the rotor. These high points can rub against the calipers and cause the car to shake.
If the tires seem to find or you have had them balanced and aligned, but still have shaking, then the next thing you should have looked at is the brakes.
At a shop, they can remove the rotors and make sure that they are round and even. If they are not, then they might be able to resurface them, if there is enough metal left.
Rotors can only be resurfaced so much thought before they need to be replaced because they have to stay a certain thickness to work right.
Another part of the brake system that can cause shaking is a sticking brake caliper. The caliper is what closes the brake pads onto the rotor.
If the caliper stays shut, then the pads will be rubbing the rotor as you try to accelerate. This will cause shaking, and it will get worse as you pick up speed.
If you think the caliper is sticking, then you need to get it checked out because it is dangerous and can damage the rotor.
The next thing that can cause a car to shake at low speeds doesn’t have to do with the wheels or driving system at all. It instead has to do with how the engine is held into the vehicle.
The engine is held in with metal mounts, and there is also rubber parts under the hood too to help hold the motor in. If these mounts come loose or the rubber breaks down, then the engine can shake as you drive.
A lot of power is inside the engine and the force being created the engine can cause the car to shake if the mounts are bad.
If the brakes and tires seem okay, then the next thing you should check is the mounts. If the engine appears loose, then the mounts will need to be replaced or retightened.
Moving on we are going back to the wheel area for the next issues, and that is bearing issues. The bearings are what helps the wheels spin freely and lubricate them.
Sometimes the bearings go and though and this leads to friction and rub around the wheels. The issues will be noticeable at lower speeds and may get better as you speed up. Also, the problem may be felt more when turning if it is the bearings.
Another thing that can cause the problem to be worse in one position over another is axel issues. The axel issues could be CV joints or different joints breaking down.
The joints are what connects the axel to the wheels, and if they break down, then there might be rubbing happening in one wheel position and not another.
This can cause shaking and most likely can be noticeable at low speeds and turning, mainly depending on which joint is bad. One way to see if it is a bad join is to jack the car off the ground a little and see if the wheel has play.
If the wheel moves when pushed on from the side, then you have a bad joint that needs to be fixed. Pushing on the wheel should not be able to move it with good joints.
Another thing that could be wrong with the axel that could cause shaking is a bent axle. If the axle is bent, then it will not spin round as the car rolls. Instead, it will have a point where it causes a bump in the rotation.
At slow speeds, this bump may seem like the road, but as you get faster, the bump will cause shaking. If the car has been wrecked, especially recently, then you will want to make sure there is no damage to the frame or axel. A bent axel is significant damage and could lead the car to be considered totaled.
The last thing that could lead the car to shake at slow speeds is the steering components going bad. Maybe the car isn’t shaking at all, and just the steering wheel is loose, and it seems like the car is shaking.
Also, the steering column might be worn out, and this would make it seem like the car was shaking. If you have checked everything else that we have mentioned up to this point, then it is time to check the steering system itself and see if the problem lies in it.
A lot of different things can lead to a car shaking at slow speeds, and it is essential to have them checked out as soon as possible. The steering wheel is your connection to the car and the road, and it is the first sign of problems.
If you have shaking, then you need to get it fixed before other things go bad. The first place is to start with the tires and see if they need balanced or aligned.
The next thing to check is the breaks, and this could even be the first thing if the issues are mainly noticeable when breaking.
After you have tested those things, if you still have shaking, then is time to go deeper and check the engine mounts, wheel bearings, and different joints.
If none of these are the problem or the car has been wrecked recently, then check the axel.
Lastly, if all else fails to check the steering system itself because the problem may be a loose wheel that is causing you to think the car is shaking but it might not be. Now you have a checklist of things to check when your vehicle is shaking though and a good idea what to do about them.