One of the common luxuries most cars have these days is an air conditioner. This convenience helps keep you cool in the summer.
Another thing that most cars have today is a heating system to help keep you warm in the winter or cooler months. These to things do the opposite of each other, but they have one part in common.
That is the blower motor. In this article, we will look at what the blower motor is and also why it might stop working.
Sometimes it may stop working just at certain speeds, but in this article, we are going to mainly focus on why the blower motor won’t work on any speed.
Read on to learn everything you need to know about your car’s blower motor, why it might stop working, and also some solutions on how to fix it.
Before getting into details of why your blower motor might stop working it is a good idea to have a basic understanding of what your blower motor actually is.
Your car’s blower motor is the part that is responsible for pushing air through your vents. This can be cool air from the AC or warm air from the heater, but it is your blower motor that moves the air thru the vents.
The blower motor is basically a high powered fan that pushes the air thru the system.
Blower motors can come in two types. A three or four-speed system, and a variable speed system. On a three or four speed system, this means that the motor will run at three or four predetermined speeds.
On a variable speed system it the blower will constantly change the speed that it is blowing. It is important to know what kind of blower you have because certain problems only happen with certain blowers.
Normally though variable speed blowers are on vehicles with automatic climate control where three or four-speed motors are on everything else.
Now that you know what the blower motor is we can start going into why it might not be working on any speed.
There are a few reasons why your blower motor may stop working. We are going to list them out here and if you want to jump to a specific section you can, but the main reasons a blower motor will stop working on any speed is:
The most common reason why your blower motor won’t work on any speed is that you have a bad or blown a fuse. A fuse is a small wire inside of a connector that is used to protect the motor itself from a surge of electricity.
It is better for the fuse to blow if it gets too much of a current than for your whole blower motor to get fried. Most cars have the fuse in a fuse box under the hood or in a fuse panel under the dash.
You can locate the fuse to your blower motor. If it is blown, then all you have to do is replace it, and that should fix the motor.
You want to make sure to check the blower motor fuse and also the HVAC controller fuse because either one of these being blown can cause the blower motor to stop working. If it is not blown, then you will have to look farther into the issue.
Another thing that is tied to bad fuses is bad relays. The relays are basically larger fuses. Normally though they are not the issue if the blower motor won’t work on any speed though because there is a relay for high speed and low speed if it is something to keep in mind and check because it is possible that both could go bad at the same time.
This is especially true if they somehow got melted from getting too hot. It doesn’t take long to test relays, so while checking the fuses, you might as well check the high and low-speed relays to make sure they are working right.
The next reason that your blower motor may not be working is that it might have a bad ground connection.
To test this, you can run a fused jumper from a battery to the power side of the motor and attach a temporary grounding jumper to the other motor terminal.
This will provide grounding for the motor, and it should run at high speed. If it does, then you know that the issue is that the motor is not being grounded. When testing your battery, if the battery has low charge, you can recharge it by using best battery maintainer, the tender will keep your battery fully charged and by the way, it will also minimize the risks of long-term damage to the battery due to either under-charging or over-charging
The way to fix this is to locate the grounding point for the motor and clean it. After a good cleaning and making sure the motor is connected to the grounding point try to power the motor using the car and see if it works. If it does, then your probably is solved.
Another way you can test to see if it is a bad ground connection is to disconnect the electrical connector at the blower motor and then attach a multimeter to the motor.
Then turn your key to the run position and see how much voltage you are getting. It should be 12+ volts. If you have a reading, then connect one lead to the power terminal on the motor and the other to the ground.
This will let you know if the ground is good. If it is, then you most likely have a dead motor, but if it isn’t, then that is a sign that the motor is not being grounded and you can clean it like previously mentioned.
This should fix the problem, but if it doesn’t, then you might have to try cleaning the grounding connection more, but first, you should check the speed control module.
The speed control module is responsible for controlling the speed of the motor. This is true for variable speed motors. If the speed control module goes out, then the motor will not run.
To test the control module, you can disconnect the electrical connector at the blower motor. Also, disconnect the jumper power and ground connections.
You want to bypass the speed control. Then run a fused jumper from a battery to the power side of the motor and connect a temporary grounding jumper to the other motor terminal.
The motor should run at full speed. If it doesn’t then the issue is something else. If it does run at full speed though, then you know that the issue lies in the blower motor speed controller or the HVAC control head, but you will have to use a scan tool to see which one of those is the problem and then have it replaced.
If none of these past things seem to be the problem, then the last bit is that you have a bad motor.
It is actually pretty uncommon for the motor to go out itself before something else and you normally have a warning when it is about to fail because it will start running poorly and squeak or slow down and things, but sometimes blower motors do go out.
If you can’t get the motor to run with these troubleshooting tips, then you will need to replace the motor because it is most likely dead, but do these other things first.
Knowing the circuitry of your motor is important because you will need to know that to find where the ground is and different things.
If you don’t know the circuitry of your motor or the type of motor you have, then you can look it up and find specific information for your vehicle. This is also important for locating fuses and relays.
Now you know the possible reasons why your blower motor won’t work on any speed. You know that the most common issue is a blown a fuse, but also sometimes the speed control module can go out if you have a variable speed motor.
You know how to check these things now though and also how to fix them. You also know that both variable speed motors and three or four-speed motors can suffer from bad grounding.
After reading this, you can test for that issue too and fix it.
Lastly, you know if all else fails, then the motor is probably bad and needs to be replaced. You know that the blower motor is the key part in moving the air in your AC and heat system and that you should replace a blower motor that isn’t working on any speed right away so you can stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter while driving.
Your car’s battery is a key component in it. A lot of people have experienced a dead battery and the issues that have caused you. Your car uses the battery to send power to the spark plugs to get the engine to turn over.
This means that if you have a weak battery, your car won’t even start. However, some people still wonder if you can run a car without your battery?
Well, read on to find the answer to this question and also all the important details pertaining to this question. The answer may actually surprise you.
So, before getting into the answer of if you can run your car without the battery or not, we will first take a brief look at the electrical system to help understand this question.
The electrical system is composed of your car’s battery, the alternator, and all the other electrical components. The battery is normally used to run anything needed power, and the alternator takes extra mechanical power from the engine and uses it to recharge the battery.
This process continues while the car is running and then when you turn it off you should have a charged battery that is ready to start your car again.
So based off of this explanation it would sound like you can not run your car without the battery because the battery is what supplies the power to everything that needs it.
Well, this assumption that you can’t run your car without the battery is false. You actually can run a car without the battery, assuming that it is already started and running.
That is because the alternator can provide the power to the system if there is not a battery there to run them. Continue reading to learn how this works and why it works.
More: A battery tender (or maintainer) is designed to fully charge and maintain most batteries in ways that avoid the potential damaging effects that can be caused by other charger. So you should choose the best battery tender to protect your car battery.
The alternator is generally strong enough to power the basic things because it normally puts off 14 volts of electricity. You may know that a car battery is normally only 12 volts.
The extra volts that the alternator puts off is so the battery can get fully charged while being drained, but if the battery isn’t there, then the alternator can send the power it is putting off to the electrical components that need them.
So, yes you can run a running car without the battery. It is just ran off the alternator if the battery is not present.
Just because you can do something though leads to the question of should you do it. In this instance should you ever run your car off the alternator and disconnect the battery while the car is running.
The answer to this is normally no; you should not run your car without a battery. This is for multiple reasons.
The main reason why you should not run your car without the battery is that the alternator doesn’t always put off even amounts of power.
This means that as the car runs the alternator can spike with the power output that it is putting out. Your battery can handle these spikes and has buffers designed to protect it, but other parts of your cars electrical system does not have protection against these spikes.
That means that parts of your electrical system could get fried or blow if you are running them off the alternator instead of the battery.
Outside of surges and possible damage to your car you should also not run the car without a battery because it puts extra stress on the alternator.
This is because the alternator is not designed to run parts of the vehicle but instead is intended to charge the battery. Whenever you use something for a purpose that it wasn’t made for you, risk damaging it.
There are very few reasons why it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery while the car is running even though you technically can, and the vehicle would stay running.
You may have disconnected your battery while the car was running before or had someone tell you it is okay, but it is not recommended.
You might do it a bunch, or they might have done it a bunch and had no bad luck with surges, but it only takes one time and one surge to ruin the whole electrical system of your car.
So it is important to remember the risk involved in running your car without the battery before doing it even though you can.
So, this might lead you to the question of why can you not start the car without the battery? If the alternator can run the car and electrical components while the car is running, why can’t it put off power to start the car?
Well, the reason that the alternator can’t be used to start the car goes back to how it works and what it is made to do. It is made to convert mechanical power from the engine to electrical power.
The alternator just converts power and does not store power. That is why a car has a battery. The batteries job is to store power so the car can use it when it is not running and has no other source of power.
This is why if your battery is dead you can’t start your car and why also why you can’t start your car without your battery.
So, now you know that you actually can run your car without the battery. This might be a surprise to some people since the battery is such an important part, but as long as the car is running the alternator can provide enough power to keep it running and power the different systems.
However, just because you can run your car without the battery doesn’t mean you should. You risk damage to your alternator and the rest of your car if there is a power surge.
That means you shouldn’t risk running your car without the battery unless you have a very good reason.
Also, it is important to remember your car won’t start without the battery, so if you are running it without the battery don’t expect to be able to start it again until you connect the battery.
Now you know all you need to know to answer the question of can you run your car without the battery?
Your car has many different systems, and they all serve their purpose. The main system in the car is the engine. This is what allows your car to run, but at the end of that system is the resonator and muffler.
Most people don’t think about the exhaust system for their vehicle and what it consists of or what it actually does. In this article, we will take a closer look at the exhaust system and explain what some of the parts do.
The main part we will be looking at is the resonator and answering the question of do you need a resonator in your exhaust system.
More: If your car battery is dead, a common solution when you can’t get the car started is jumping the car, but sometimes this won’t always work. If the battery is too low to jump or you don’t have another car around to use, then you need a different option. The best battery tender is the perfect solution.
Before getting into if you need a resonator or not, we first have to look at what it is. You can’t determine if you need something if you don’t know what it does after all.
A lot of times people get the resonator confused with the muffler. The two parts are not the same thing. The muffler is the part that sticks out of the rear of the car, and the resonator falls right before it.
The resonators job is to reduce the sound before it gets to the muffler. This makes the mufflers job easier and allows you to have more power and better fuel efficiency.
An exhaust resonator is a chamber or tube that is a cylinder. It is the first part of the muffler and normally right after the catalytic converter, but not all mufflers have resonators attached.
The thing is resonators can be shaped differently and designed differently depending on the vehicle. We don’t need to get into the specifics though of the different shapes to understand how they function though.
To understand how it works you need a basic understanding of what it looks like, and it is a tubed chamber is enough. The basics of how the resonator reduces the sound are the sound enter it, and then the sound waves bounce off the walls of the resonator.
As they bounce off the walls, they change pitch and then sounds of the same pitch hit each other canceling each other out.
With the resonator, it actually cancels the higher pitch sounds out easier, and those are the ones that the muffler has a harder time with, so by the sound waves passing thru the resonator before the muffler, it reduces the tough sounds and also changes the sounds.
The resonator will resonate some, and that is how it gets its name and also how the sounds are changed some.
Outside of reducing the sound through the resonator also creates back pressure in the exhaust system. This helps the car to be more fuel efficient.
The back pressure makes sure the exhaust comes out at the proper rate. This allows for top performance with the least amount of sound.
If the resonator provides so much good then with reducing sound and increasing performance and efficiency, then why remove it? Well, some people want their cars to be louder than stock.
Some people like the sound that comes from the power of their engine. If you want your car to be louder, you can change the muffler, but another option is to remove the resonator or put in a different one.
So, now that you know what the resonator does in your car’s exhaust system we can address the question of should you remove the resonator.
The answer is it depends on what you are trying to achieve. If you want a little more noise from your car, then you should probably not remove the resonator.
Just change the type of muffler you have on it. If you want a lot more noise though, then you could consider removing the resonator and just putting a straight pipe in.
Also, with some cars, the resonator is connected to the muffler, so if you want to change the muffler, you will have to change or remove the resonator by default.
Removing the resonator is purely for a sound point though. It will not give you any more power by removing it.
It can actually cause your car to have less power or be less fuel efficient because like we have mentioned the resonator helps make back pressure that keeps the exhaust flowing right.
Some people just like louder sounding cars though and if that is you then removing the resonator is an option. One last thing to remember though is removing the resonator might not give you more of the sound you want.
Most people like the deep roar sound and the resonator mainly blocks out the higher pitch sounds that aren’t desirable. Also, with some vehicles, the resonator doesn’t affect the sound that comes out of the car that can be heard outside, but only reduces the sound you hear on the inside so it might just make your ride louder inside, but not affect the sound of the car.
So, now that you have read this you should be able to make the decision on if removing your exhaust resonator is right for you. You now know what the resonator is and that it is different than the muffler.
You also know the basics of how it works and the kinds of sounds it blocks out and how it does it. With this information, you can determine if you want your car to be louder and if removing the resonator might provide the sound you want.
If you want your car to be a little louder, then I would recommend leaving the resonator on, but if you want the car to be a lot louder and don’t care about fuel efficiency, you can remove it completely.
The other option is taking the middle ground of changing the muffler and or the resonator. With your exhaust sometimes you might have to experiment to get the sound you want and test to see if removing the resonator on your exhaust is the right thing for you to get the desired sound from your vehicle.
So to wrap it up and answer the question with a direct answer, do you need an exhaust resonator? No, but it is useful and recommended in most situations.
When needing a new battery for your lawn tractor, it can be hard to find the right one. That is because there are so many different batteries to choose from.
Luckily for you in this article, we have compiled a list of the best lawn tractor batteries for you. The thing is this list is also great for anyone looking for a lawn mower battery.
The batteries on this list are some of the best lawn mower batteries as well. Read on to find out which of these batteries is the best and also the difference between a lawn tractor and lawn mower battery.
Before getting into the specific batteries, we will take a look between the differences of a lawn tractor battery and a lawn mower battery. The main difference between the two is the power that it can put out.
This is especially true on the startup or cold cranking amp power. Both lawn tractors and lawn mowers run on twelve-volt batteries, so that part is the same, but since lawn tractors are normally bigger than lawn mowers, the battery for them tends to put out more power on startup.
This means that if you have a battery rated for a lawn tractor, it will have no problem starting a lawn mower, but if it is a battery rated to start a lawnmower, then it might struggle with starting a lawn tractor.
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The first battery we have on our list is from ExpertPower and is the EXP 12200. This battery is standard size and measures 3 inches x 6.5 inches x 7.1 inches, and it weighs 12.5 pounds.
The battery is durable and built well. The rugged construction allows it to withstand bumps and vibration. This battery is a sealed lead acid battery and uses AGM (Absorbed Glass Mats), so it won’t leak and can be mounted in any position.
There is no maintenance for this battery besides keeping it charged, and it is valve regulated. This battery is a 20 amp hour battery, so it can keep going for a while.
The EXP 12200 is a right side positive battery, and the terminals are a B1 type. The terminals are also threaded to help make sure that the cables stay connected once installed.
Users like how easy it is to install this battery and how well it fits in and replaces most batteries. A few users have had small size issues, and some users have gotten bad ones, but that can happen with any battery.
Outside of these small things the ExpertPower EXP12200 is a solid replacement battery for your lawn mower or lawn tractor.
Next, we have a battery from Mighty Max, and it is the ML35-12. This battery has dimensions of 7.68 inches x 5.16 inches x 7.13 inches and weighs 23.15 pounds making it pretty standard.
This battery has a strong construction as well and can be mounted in any position also because it is an SLA/AGM battery. The battery is leak proof and valve regulated.
The positive terminal on this battery is located on the left side. The battery is easy to mount and comes with the screws needed.
The ML35-12 is called that because it is a 12-volt battery with 35 amp hours of power making it strong enough for any lawn tractor or lawn mower. The battery has deep cycles and discharges and recharges well.
Users like how easy it is to install and how well it replaces most other batteries.
The only complaints have been from people getting dead ones, but the good thing with the Mighty Max is it has a 30-day replacement policy and then a 1-year warranty meaning you won’t have any trouble getting your ML35-12 switched out if an issue does come about making it a top lawn battery option.
Moving along we have the UB12350 from Universal Power Group. This battery is another SLA/AGM battery and comes with all the benefits that those offers which is leak proof and mountable in any position.
The size of this battery is 7.75 inches x 5.19 inches x 7.13 inches making it pretty much the same size as the rest, and it weighs 22.5 pounds. The case on this battery is again top construction, and it is designed to resist shocks and vibrations which is good because lawn tractor and lawn mower batteries get jarred around a lot while being used.
The UB12350 is a standard 12-volt battery, but it is stronger with 35 amp hours of power making it a great option. You won’t have to worry about this battery not putting enough juice out to start your mower.
The battery will deep cycle, and it recharges well. The positive terminal is on the left side. Users have had good luck with this battery working how it is supposed too and fitting well.
The last, we have a battery from Chrome Battery, and it is similar to the rest in the size department. This battery is 7.68 inches x 6.46 inches x 5.12 inches and weighs 21.71 pounds.
The terminal on this battery is located on the left side and is a standard T3 terminal. The battery is rechargeable multiple times and is a regular SLA/AGM battery.
It is 12 volts, but has 35 amp hours making it stronger than some other batteries, but helps it fit right in with most of the batteries on this list.
The case is ruggedly built which allows the battery to handle vibrations and shock. It can be mounted in any position that you need too and is leak-proof since it is an AGM battery.
The install is fast with this battery, and it comes fully charged, so you just have to connect it and go. Some years have had issues with theirs not holding a good charge when not in use, and some have found it didn’t last as long as they would like, but that could be due to soaring conditions.
So, now the question comes which one of these lawn tractor batteries should you get for your lawn mower or lawn tractor. Well, the answer is any of them can be the best lawn mower or best lawn tractor battery depending on the size of battery you need.
The key is to measure the space that you have to put the battery in and also make sure to get one that has the terminal on the correct side.
If you do these things and make sure to get a battery that will fit, then it should be perfect for your needs.
You can’t go wrong with any of the batteries on this list. They are all great lawn tractor and lawn mower batteries. They have enough power to start anything that you throw at them, and as long as they fit into your lawn mower or lawn tractor, they will work for you.
All the batteries we have looked at here are top quality AGM batteries that have no maintenance outside of charging and are leak and spill proof. This means you can mount them in whatever position you need and get the most out of them.
After reading this you know to just make sure to pick a battery that will fit your equipment. If you do that, then one of the batteries will be the best lawn tractor battery or best lawn mower battery for you.
When it comes to charging something, mainly a battery, there are a variety of type/method that can be used. Each type has its positives and negatives. In this article, we will discuss the common basic charging types.
Read on to learn the different charging types that are possible as well as what sets them apart. We will give details so you understand what is going on with each type and also when or why you might want to use a particular type.
Before going into deep detail, we will list out the nine basic charging types. Each one has a purpose, and if you want to learn about a particular one, then you can jump straight to it. The main charging types are:
The first type of charging a battery we will look at is a constant voltage. A constant voltage does what the name implies and provides a constant voltage to the battery.
These types of chargers are generally cheap and simple. In the simplest form, a constant voltage charger can be a DC (direct current) power supply with a step-down transformer that rectifies the power.
You can use this type of charger for both lead-acid cells as well as lithium-ion cells. However, the lithium-ion charger is normally a bit more advanced for the safety of you and the battery. The reason why these are good is that they are cost-effective, but there are better options.
The next type of charging is a constant current. This is similar to constant voltage because it keeps one aspect of the charging constant, but this time it is the current or flow of electricity thru the battery at the constant.
The way it does this is that it changes the voltage, so the current coming out is always equal. When the battery gets fully charged it is able to stop charging.
Most of the time this type of charging is used for nickel-metal hybrid cells and nickel-cadmium batteries. The reason this type of charger is good is that it stops charging when the battery is full, but other types can also do this and work better for certain types of batteries.
The next type of charging is taper current. This type can damage batteries very easily. You can get away with it with some SLA batteries, but it is a good idea to keep an eye on the charging of your battery.
This is because the taper current does not provide a constant voltage. It is a crude type that sends in a voltage that causes the current to diminish as the cell voltage builds up.
The voltage going into the battery is unregulated. This charging should not be used except for the last resort because there are better and safer options.
The next type is a very good type to help extend your battery life, and that is pulse charging. As the name suggests, the energy goes into the battery in pulses.
The current goes in as a pulse, and you can set how long of pulse period you want. Normally it is around 1 second. Then, you have 20 milliseconds to 30 milliseconds of rest between pulses.
This resting period allows the battery to stabilize. By stabilizing it means that the battery is able to equalize the reaction across most of the electrodes before the next charge pulse comes in.
By being allowed to stabilize it allows the chemical reaction to keep pace with the incoming charge. This prevents unwanted chemical reactions at the electrode surface such as gas being formed.
It also prevents the formation of crystals and passivation. This type is good for any battery.
The next type of charging is burp charging which expands on pulse charging. It is just like pulse charging, but with an added step. Before the next pulse goes in, with burp charging it sends a discharge pulse in.
This depolarizes the cells and helps to eliminate any gas bubbles that have built up. The releasing of the gas bubbles is known as burping. Other names for this type of charging are reflex or negative pulse charging.
This type of charging is supposed to extend battery life more and allow for faster charging, but there is no conclusive evidence of this. The only evidence is that burp charging can’t hurt a battery, so it doesn’t hurt to try it if you are a fan of pulse charging.
The next kind of charging is a newer type for lead-acid batteries, and that is IUI charging. This type is not for all lead-acid batteries, so you want to make sure yours is compatible.
IUI charging is done in stages, and the first stage is bulk charging where it is charged at a constant rate until it reaches a preset point where gases start to form.
When it reaches this point the charger switches into a middle phase that provides a constant voltage and the current drawn by the battery will slowly drop until it reaches a particular point and the current drops at a diminishing rate.
Once it reaches this second preset point the battery switches back to a constant current mode and charges the battery to a higher preset point until it reaches that and then the charger shuts off completely.
This final charge helps stabilize the battery and makes sure that the cells are equally charged ensuring longer battery life.
The next type, trickle charging, is designed for battery maintenance. This type is not for bringing a battery back from being dead but is instead designed to keep a battery that is not in use charged.
With trickle charging a small current is applied to the battery at the rate that the battery is discharging. This keeps it charged and ready to go and helps keep chemicals from building up on the inside of the battery hurting its life.
Some charges automatically switch to a trickle charge mode when a battery is fully charged. You can’t use this charging on all batteries though. You shouldn’t use it on NiMH or lithium because they are easily overcharged.
Bonus: When the car is not used much, the battery can begin to lose charge because its not charged by the alternator. This is a common occurrence of classic cars that are only used on weekends . To keep the battery fully charged, you need the best car battery maintainer for your car.
The next type is similar to trickle charge in that it does not overcharge the battery. Float charging is mainly used on lead-acid batteries, and it holds the voltage of the battery at a point that is below the maximum charge.
It is for emergencies mainly and is good for battery backup. The way it works is the battery and load are permanently connected in parallel across the DC charging source.
The last type is a random charge. This is when a random charge is applied to something. This is because the power is coming from a source that can’t be controlled completely.
For example, the alternator works based on how fast the engine is going, so it provides a different charge at different times. Another instance is solar power where the sun is at different levels at different times.
The random charge is pretty common but generally isn’t used for charging batteries in most cases.
So, now you know all the basic types for charging a battery. You know the nine common battery charging types and how they work.
You also now know the benefits and negatives of each one. Whenever you need to charge a battery, you should be able to pick out the best battery charging type for your needs.
Over time and use batteries go dead and then they need to be charged. The longer a battery sits without being used, the more it will drain. This is especially true in extreme temperature areas.
Even AGM batteries, which are top quality, will need to be charged at some point. When it comes time to charge an AGM battery, what voltage should you use?
Well, after reading this you will know and then be able to choose the right charger for your battery and charging situation.
Before getting into voltage we will give a fast break down of what happens in the battery when it needs to be charged. In an AGM battery, you have absorbed glass matts, and they hold the electrolyte mixture that holds the charge.
You also have metal plates. As time passes the sulfur in the electrolyte sticks and builds up onto these metal plates. When this happens, the electrons are trapped and can’t move thru the battery. That is why it has a low charge.
A charger sends pulses into the battery, and these pulses help break the sulfur build up off the plates. The sulfur is restored into the electrolyte which is held on the glass matts in an AGM battery, and this restores the charge to the battery.
As the battery ages though some of the sulfur is lost or stuck permanently to the matts and this is why batteries eventually go bad.
So, now that you understand the basics of how charging works, what voltage should you use? Well, picking the right voltage is pretty easy.
Voltage is the amount of energy that is going into the battery, and you want the voltage to be equal to the voltage of the battery when choosing a charger.
This means if you have a 12-volt battery, then you would want to get a best 12v battery charger. It is that simple when it comes to the voltage of making sure that the voltage matches the voltage of the battery.
Some chargers have switches, and you can change the voltage that is being put of by the charger. These are nice, especially if you have multiple batteries of different voltages around.
That way you can use the same charger for all your batteries. Just make sure you change it to the right voltage setting when switching your batteries out.
If figuring out the voltage to use is as simple as matching it to the voltage of the battery, then what makes charging an AGM battery different from others? Well, we have an article available for you about that, but the key part is to use lower Amps with an AGM battery.
For the full explanation of why you can read the other article, but amps is the speed at which the current is being applied to the battery.
To prevent heat and to overcharge it is better to apply the charge slower with AGM batteries. This has to do with how they are made.
In the other article, we also cover if it is necessary to use an AGM charger or if a standard battery charger will work with AGM batteries.
AGM batteries don’t need to be charged as much as other batteries, but they do still need to be charged. You should test them, and once they start getting down to 10,5 volts or so, you should load them.
You should keep your battery on a maintainer when it is not being used for long periods and this will help it not lose its charge and will help the battery last longer.
AGM batteries do still need to be charged like other batteries, but they hold their charge better so don’t need to be charged as often. When loading an AGM battery, it is important to remember to use a charger with lower amps.
For the voltage of the charger to use it is simple to figure out. When charging any better, you want to make sure the energy of the charger matches the voltage of the battery.
That is not just true for AGM batteries but is a rule for all batteries. The voltage is how much power is being put out, and amps are the speed at which it is being put out.
To charge a battery properly, the voltage needs to be the same as the battery being charged. If it is less than the battery being charged, then it won’t charge all the way, and if it is more, then it will damage the battery.
It is that simple to make sure the two voltages match when determining what voltage to charge your AGM battery at.
There are a variety of types of lead acid batteries on the market and each one works slightly differently. They all do the same thing, and that is provide power to something, and they all do it in roughly the same way with plates and electrolyte in between, but they hold the electrolyte in different ways and can run out of juice in different ways.
This means that they need charged in different ways. After reading this, you will understand the difference in charging an AGM battery verses charging a standard battery, and the best charger for each one.
First though before getting into the specifics of different types of chargers and which to use with what kind of battery we will cover what charging actually does. In a battery you have the electrolyte which is a liquid that holds the electrons.
The electrolyte is a mixture of sulfur and some other parts. Over time, the sulfur and the electrons with it stick to the metal plates inside the battery and builds up. When the electrons are stuck to the plates, instead of being able to flow thru the battery, that is when the battery is considered low on charge.
By charging the battery a pulse is sent into the battery and it breaks the sulfur build up off the plates. This frees the electrons and puts them back into the electrolyte where they are able to move thru the battery again and provide juice to whatever the battery is connected too.
In a standard battery the electrons are housed in just the liquid mixture and a part of that mixture is water. When you recharge a standard battery, the charger normally puts off a strong pulse and charges quickly.
This is because standard batteries with liquid in them are not hurt by being charged fast. By charging the battery fast you can start using it again quicker.
The problem with charging a battery fast though is that it causes a lose of the water inside of the mixture. It evaporates off and heat is formed. A standard battery though the heat goes away with the water that is being lost and normally it doesn’t get hot enough for damage to occur.
Charging a battery fast though can also lead to over charging. This is when pulses are still being sent in, but there is no more sulfur to be broke off.
Over charging of a standard battery again does not cause much damage and just causes water to be lost. The reason this water lose isn’t a big deal though, is that water can be added back into a standard battery making it so it will function the same.
An AGM battery on the other hand though, you can not add water back to it. This means that water that is lost has to get back in a different way. For an AGM battery there is a catalyst such as platinum, that is able to turn the hydrogen atoms that are created when charging back into the water.
In an AGM battery there are glass matts that absorb the liquid and AGM stands for Absorbed glass matts. These matts suspend the electrolyte and makes it so the battery does not leak.
Since water can not be added directly back to an AGM battery though, then once the catalyst is gone inside, it is gone, so you should do everything to prevent the need for it.
When it comes to charging, that means you should charge an AGM battery low and slow. This is because if you add a low amount of pulse over a longer period of time not as much heat will be made, so the battery won’t get as hot.
Also, if you charge it slowly, then you are less likely to over charge the battery and cause damage. However, you don’t want to under charge the battery either. That is why they make chargers designed for AGM batteries and are labeled as that.
A charger labeled for use with AGM batteries is normally more of a battery tender. This means that it has computers that can monitor the level of charge in the battery. As it gets closed to being fully charged, then the charge can slow down, so as not to over charge the battery.
These special chargers will normally stop charging once the battery is fully charged, and won’t start recharging again till needed, meaning they can be left connected.
So, now that you understand the difference between a standard charger and an AGM charger, a lot of people will ask if you have to use an AGM charger for an AGM battery. The technical answer is no you don’t have too.
The standard charger will charge the battery and if monitored will not cause harm to the AGM battery, especially if used on the lowest setting, but if you are not careful, then it will over charge the battery and lead to the AGM batteries life being cut short.
That is why even though you technically don’t have to have an AGM charger for an AGM battery, it is a good idea to have one. You spent good money on an AGM battery, so make sure you charge it properly and don’t damage it and get a charger designed for it.
AGM and standard batteries both charge in the same way. The charger applies a pulse to the battery and this breaks the sulfur off the plates and restores it to the electrolyte allowing the electrons to flow freely.
The difference is when you charge a battery it loses water, and this is especially true with strong standard chargers or if you over charge a battery. With a standard battery this isn’t much of an issue because you can add water back, but with an AGM battery you can’t add water back.
It has a catalyst inside the turn the hydrogen back into water, but once the catalyst is gone, the batteries life will be almost over with. That is why you should use an AGM battery charger on an AGM battery to keep the life of the battery up and prevent water lose and over charging.
When your battery is dead in your car, mower, or other items that use an array you might want to charge it instead of buying a new one. This is because a lot of times when the power is low in a battery it can be restored, and the battery is not truly dead.
This is good because it saves you money from having to buy a new battery. However, what is the best way to restore the power to a battery? There are a few options on the market, and it is important to know the differences between these options.
The options we will look at in this article is regular battery chargers versus battery tenders. After reading this article, you will know what each one does and when to use each one.
Bonus: When the car is not used much, the battery can begin to lose charge because its not charged by the alternator. This is a common occurrence of classic cars that are only used on weekends . To keep the battery fully charged, you need the best battery tender for you.
A battery charger is just what it says. It is a device that charges the battery. The way a battery charger works are it converts power from a wall or battery bank into a pulse that goes into the battery.
The pulse causes the sulfur that is built upon the plates in the battery to break off and return to the electrolyte inside the battery. This is how the charge is restored.
With a battery charger, you can set a specific amp amount, and that controls how much of a pulse goes into the battery. You want to make sure to use a proper amp that will not damage the battery.
It is generally better to charge slower, than faster because when you charge to fast it can cause heat to build up in the battery and this will damage it. If the battery burst, then it will be permanent damage.
Also, you want to make sure to know the kind of battery you are charging because some require specific types of battery chargers.
A special type of battery charger is a trickle charger. A trickle charger applies a small amount of voltage to a battery. This causes it to charge slowly and not to get too hot.
Also, the advantage of a trickle charger is that it reduces the chance of overcharging your battery. When charging a battery you want to make sure to charge it all the way or else the lifespan of the battery will be hurt, but you also don’t want to overcharge the battery because that will ruin the battery too.
The charge from a trickle charger is constant, but it puts out a charge that is equal to the batteries rate of self-discharge. Trickle chargers are still not designed to stay connected to the battery.
Even though they reduce the risk of overcharging, it still isn’t good to use them for battery maintenance. If you want something for maintenance, then you should read farther.
A battery tender is similar to a charger, but not the same thing. A battery tender is designed for maintaining a battery more than charging it. While a battery tender puts off a charge, it does do so at a fast rate. If you want to get a battery use-able fast, then you should use a charger.
A battery tender puts off a charge that is controlled. You can set an amount, and it will not charge a battery past that amount. This means that it won’t overcharge the battery.
The battery tender can see how much charge the battery has and when it needs a charge, then it will turn on and start supplying a charge. Once the battery reaches the set threshold, then it will turn off and stop charging till the battery drops below the set point.
Outside of this feature through the battery tender still does the same thing as a regular charger of converting power into a pulse that goes into a battery that breaks the sulfur off the plates.
So when should you use a battery tender over a battery charger? Well, the best time for a battery tender is when you aren’t going to be using the battery for a while.
You can leave the battery hooked up to the tender, and whenever it drops below the set point, it will get topped back off. This will keep the battery from draining all the way and going bad. When a battery sets and isn’t used, then it loses charge, and this hurts the life of the battery.
A battery charger should be used when a battery is dead and just needs a fast charge, and you can keep an eye on it, so it doesn’t overcharge.
Depending on the battery and charger you can get a battery back to full strength in four hours or so and then it is ready to use again. This is good if you are going to be needing to use the battery soon.
A battery charger though should not be left hooked to a battery for long periods though because it will cause damage.
So now you know the difference between a battery charger and a battery tender. You even know that there are a couple of types of battery chargers. You have regular battery chargers and trickle chargers.
You also know that battery chargers provide a constant charge to a battery and are designed to restore a battery to full power, but not be left hooked to a battery.
If you want to keep a battery charger or maintained, then that is what a battery tender is for. A battery tender will put off a charge up to a certain point and then when the battery reaches that point it will stop charging till needed again.
This means a battery tender can be left hooked up forever and are good to used to keep a battery in working order during long periods of not being used. Now that you know the difference you should be able to determine what one you should use for your situation.
Dead car batteries are an annoying thing. This is especially because a lot of times they happen out of the blue. Sometimes it is from something simple such as a light getting left on and you can jump the car and get on your way, but sometimes the battery is too dead to jump and needs completely charged.
What does it mean though if your car battery won’t charge. Well, in this article we will look at some of the possibilities of why a car battery won’t charge and some of the solutions for that.
The first reason why a car battery might not be charging is that the alternator may be bad. The alternator is what converts the spinning of the engine into power that goes back into your battery.
Normally, when a car and alternator is working properly, the alternator will charge the battery as you drive, so then it will have enough power to start the car again the next time you need it too.
If the alternator is bad though, then it is not providing any charge to the battery and their for the battery is not charging.
The alternator not charging the battery could be something as simple as the connections have came undone. If that is the case, then all you have to do is reconnect things, and it should start working properly.
Vibration while driving or wires going bad is how the battery and the alternator could become disconnected. If they are not disconnected though, then their must be something else going on.
You can run a test on the alternator by a automotive multimeter and see if it is putting off a charge. If it is not putting off a charge, then it is bad and must be replaced.
Getting an alternator replaced isn’t that hard and if you are mechanically skilled then you can do it yourself. If you aren’t though, then any shop can do it for you. If the alternator is putting off a charge, but it isn’t constant, then you might just have a bad belt.
If your serpentine belt is loose, then it could be slipping and not allowing the alternator to work properly. If that is the case, then you will need that belt replaced. Again, this isn’t that hard of a task to have done and isn’t to costly of a repair.
Another reason why the battery may not be charging is that the battery itself is bad. A lot of things can go wrong inside of the battery. The battery could short itself out or get internal damage from shocks or vibration.
To find out if the battery itself is bad you can run some test on it. If the battery itself is bad, then you will have to replace it and get a new battery. A bad battery can not be repaired.
Also, if the battery shows visual signs of being bad, then it is time to replace it. If it has corrosion or leaks, then it is defiantly time to get a new battery. If the connectors aren’t corroded to bad, then they might be able to be cleaned off and this might allow it to charge properly again.
Another reason why a battery might go bad is just its age. As a battery is used suffer builds up on the plates and forms a crust. When the battery is being charged it breaks this suffer off of the plates.
Over time though the sulfur will not come off the plates all the way and won’t go back into the solution. Also, the sulfur eats the plates and over time and recharging the plates just disappear. As the sulfur is broke off the plates int he recharging process, a part of the plate goes with it.
Think of a rusted panel and how it crumbles, well the plates int he battery work the same way. If your battery is old it won’t recharge or hold a charge and again will have to be replaced.
Another final reason why a battery might not recharge is that the charger you are using may be bad, not be the right type, or not be connected right. Some batteries require special types of chargers to recharge them.
If you are using a charger and it doesn’t seem to be charging your battery, then make sure it is the right type for that battery.
Another reason why the charge may not be charging the battery is your may not have it connected right. To connect a charger to a battery you want to make sure the positive lead is connected to the positive connector on the battery.
If it is not it will not work and cause damage to the battery. You then connect the negative to the negative pole on the battery. Once connected make sure you plug the charger in and set it on the right amps or speed of charge to match the battery.
If these things don’t work, then the charger itself might be bad. Try a different charger and see if it works with the battery you are trying to charge. A battery charger could get a short in it just like a battery can or the inside components could go bad. If you want to buy a new battery charger, this is the best battery tender for you.
A battery charger has to convert the AC or DC current into current that the battery can use and this converter mechanism on the inside of the charger might go bad or stop working. This is especially the case if the charge is old, or if the charger has not been stored or used right in the past.
So as you now know there are a few reasons why a car battery might not be charging. The alternator inside the car could be bad or you could have a loose belt inside the car. The battery itself could be bad. The battery could have damage that you don’t see or it just might be old and wore out.
If it has been recharged a bunch, then it just might not be able to be recharged any more. Lastly, the charger could be bad if you are trying to use an external charger or it could be connected wrong. After you have made sure it is the right charger and is connected right, you might need to try a different charger to see if that fixes the problem.
Now you have a better understanding of why a car battery won’t charge and should be able to trouble shoot it for the situation that is at hand for you and your current situation.
When looking for a battery there are a lot of different types from AGM to flooded to gel. Well, this article isn’t going to get into the differences of those. If you want to know the differences, then we have some articles you can read.
Instead this article is going to look at the best AGM battery and help you figure out which one is right for you. After reading this article you will have a good idea of a few of the different AGM batteries on the market and know what to look for when choosing one.
Odyssey PC680 Battery
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Mighty Max Battery ML35-12 - 12V 35AH U1 Deep Cycle AGM Solar Battery Replaces 33Ah, 34Ah, 36Ah brand product
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Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V 24V 48V(Black)
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Optima Batteries 8016-103 D34M BlueTop Starting and Deep Cycle Marine Battery
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Optima Batteries 8040-218 D35 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery
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These AGM batteries are all great options and are good starting points for you to figure out what you are looking for:
The first battery we will look at is the Mighty Max ML35-12. It is a 12 volt, 35 Amp Hour, U1, deep cycle battery. The size of this battery is 7.68 inches x 5.16 inches x 7.13 inches.
This makes it pretty standard size and means that it will fit into most things. It weights 23.15 pounds and it has the positive terminal on the left side.
This battery is great because it can be mounted in any position, has a high discharge rate, and deep discharge recovery meaning that it will last for a long time. It can be recharged over and over and has a long service life.
On top of this it can be used in a wide range of temperature conditions, so no matter if it is hot or cold, it will operate and provide charge properly. The case is made to resist shocks and vibrations, so you don’t have to worry about it cracking or getting damaged either.
The only issues people have had with this battery is some people have gotten bad ones that didn’t last very long. This was an issue with manufacturing and wasn’t many users.
The good thing though is that this battery has a one year warranty, so if you end up getting a bad one, they will replace it for you. This isn’t likely though, as most of the issues have been resolved, but it is still nice that it has a one year warranty.
Bonus: If you want to have a smart charger for fully charged battery, this is the best battery maintainer for your car battery.
The next battery we will look at is the Odyssey PC680 Battery. It weights 13.4 pounds and measures 7.7 inches x 7.7 inches x 3.9 inches. This makes it a standard size battery. The positive terminal on this battery is on the right side.
This battery is another deep cycle battery and has a long service life. It last 70 percent longer than most other deep cycle batteries and can last up to 400 cycles discharging up to 80 percent. This means that you will be able to use this battery for a long time after getting it.
It comes with a full 2 year warranty and Odyssey will replace it for you if you have gotten damaged one, but you have to go thru their customer service and not the customer service of where you bought the battery from. Outside of this though the service life on this battery is 3-10 years.
The battery has 170 cold cranking amps, which means that it is powerful enough to start most smaller things, but this might not be enough to start bigger things. Before getting this battery be sure to check the CCA of the old battery to make sure that this one will be able to provide enough power.
This battery also recharges fast. Deepening on how low it is it can recharge in four to six hours, which is faster than most batteries on the market. These positive things make the Odyssey PC680 a good AGM battery to consider.
The ODYSSEY battery is the ideal choice for a complete range of powersports applications: motorcycles, ATVs, personal watercraft, snowmobiles, ultralight aircraft and Gyrocopter aircraft.
Another top AGM battery you can consider is the HC600 from Kinetik. This battery is standard size and measures 7 inches x 3 inches x 6.5 inches and weighs 11.8 pounds. This means it will fit into most things and can be used in anything that it will fit.
The positive terminal is on the right side, but since it is an AGM battery, it can be installed in any position you need too. The case on this battery is durable and made from ABS plastic. This means it can resist extreme heat conditions and vibrations. It is also spill-proof and sealed tight no matter what bumps you might hit.
The Kinetik HC600 is a standard 12-volt battery, but it provides a high current. This means you can use it to run a vehicle or something else such as a sound system.
The battery offers ultra-low ESR and has more plates to provide stronger energy density. This gives a robust 600 cranking amps and also an 18 amp hour rating. That means this battery can go for a while and can power anything up to 600 watts without issue.
Users really love this battery and how well it holds a charge. It stores energy to a high level, so you don’t need a capacitor if you are using it as a second battery.
Most users have used these to power their sound system and have pushed things even higher than the rating with the Kinetik HC600, but it can be used as an excellent car battery as well.
Another top battery is the Universal UB121000-45978. This battery is big size and weights 60 pounds making it a large battery. The weight is due to the top build construction. The case on this battery is very durable and hard to damage. The battery is also shock and vibration resistant.
The UB121000-45978 is an SLA/AGM battery which means that it is spill proof as well as maintenance free. Since the liquid is held in the glass matts, it will not come out and doesn’t need to be refilled.
Users though of this battery have found that it holds a charge well and can be recharged faster than other similar batteries to get good results. It has a standing self-discharge of less than three percent per month, making it a very efficient store of energy that doesn’t require frequent charging.
This model has a 100AH rating guaranteeing an excellent storage capacity and functional lifespan for use with trolling motors and any other equipment that requires consistent energy at a low cranking current.
The battery is 12-volt which makes it great for any car or another piece of equipment that takes that voltage. This battery has left side positive when holding the battery towards you.
Another benefit to this battery is that it can be mounted in any direction since it is spill proof, so if you are having a hard time reaching a cable to it, you can install it is a different way to get more reach.
Outside of the extended durability of this battery users also like that the Universal UB121000-45978 comes with a one year warranty. This is nice because some users have had it short-out a little into having it and they were able to get a new one.This battery is an excellent 12-volt battery that holds a charge well. It also has solid durability, and the customer service and warranty is a bonus. You should defiantly consider the Universal UB121000-45978 if you are looking for a new battery for a car or other equipment.
Next we get to the first Optima battery and it is the 8025-160 Red Top. This battery measures 9.3 inches x 6.8 inches x 7.6 inches making it standard and it weights 39.5 pounds making it a bit on the heavy side.
This battery is 44 amp hour and offers 720 cold cranking amps (CCA) meaning that it can start anything with no problem. It has a reserve capacity of 90 minutes and the positive terminal is on the left side.
This AGM battery is designed to start things in any weather conditions, and can be mounted in any position needed. It is 15 times more resistant to vibration compare to other batteries on the market meaning that the case will not get damaged and cracked. It means that this AGM battery can be used on race cars that run at high speeds.
The red top is designed for things with alternators that instantly start giving power to the battery once started. Since the Optima Red Top gives so much power at the start, it needs to start receiving a charge quickly to operate properly.
Next in the Optima family is the 8016-103 Blue Top. This one measures 10 inches x 6.9 inches x 7.8 inches and weights 43.5 pounds making it a heavy battery. It offers 55 amp hours of power and has a cold cranking amp of 750 meaning that it can start anything and can keep it running for awhile.
The blue top has all the same qualities as the red top when it comes to shock resistance and being able to start things in any weather condition. The reserve capacity is 120 minutes meaning that it can keep running for awhile.
The blue top however is design for a few different things. The blue top with dark gray case is designed to be a starting battery only and never for a cycling battery. It should be used for marine applications and RVs only when starting is required.
They have a blue top with light gray case though that is designed to both start and deep cycle. The light gray blue top can be used for marine item and RVs in any situation. Just make sure you get the right one for your situation and be aware of these differences.This battery is ideal for those who need a sure-starting, strong-cranking, maintenance-free power source.
The last Optima battery we will look at is the 8040-218 Yellow Top. It measures 9.4 inches x 6.8 inches x 7.7 inches and weights 36.4 pounds putting it on the smaller side for an optima battery.
It has a reserve capacity of 98 minutes meaning that you can get a lot of top performance out of it. The positive terminal is on the right and it has 620 cold cranking amps meaning that it is more than strong enough to start things in pretty much any situation.
The Yellow Top is designed in the same way as the other two to be able to start things in any weather condition and to resist vibrations and mounted in any way. The thing that sets the yellow top apart is that it is designed to provide the extra performance and deep-cycling capability, it's used in instance where you have a lot of accessories.
If you have power sliding doors or dvd players and things that draw a lot of power while running, then this is the option for you. It is capable of starting the vehicle, but then better at discharging so it keeps the vehicle running while powering all the other items.It can be used on any type of vehicle from your standard car to racing vehicles or vehicles with a lot of aftermarket electronics.
So what sets the three Optima batteries apart from other AGM batteries? Well, that has to do with the design. It doesn’t matter what color top Optima battery you have they are all made the same way. Inside the Optima batteries the plates are wrapped in coils.
If you won't have a better understanding of AGM battery, we will briefly cover what an AGM battery is. AGM stands for Absorb Glass Matt and means that the liquid that holds the charge in the battery is held in a glass matt.
So, which one of these AGM batteries is the best? Well, the answer is one of the Optima ones depending on your need. If you just need a good starter battery for your car, then the red top will do the job great.
If you have a lot of after market things on your car, then you would want the yellow top. If you are looking for a battery for an RV or something else, then the blue top Optima should serve your needs.
One of the Optimas is the best though because they are powerful AGM batteries and will last for a long time. But they are more expensive than others.
None of the options on this list are bad though, Mighty Max Battery ML35-12, Kinetik HC600, Odyssey PC680 and Universal Ub121000-45978 are good depending on what you need, so if you think one of them would work better for you, then it is safe to go with one of the others.
So now you know seven of the best AGM batteries on the market. The thing to remember when buying a battery is the side the positive terminal is on that you need and also the cold cranking amps and amp hours.
These should be equal to or greater than the battery you are replacing to make sure that it has enough juice to do what you need it to do. All these AGM batteries are good and one of them should get the job done for you.