Your steering system is a very important part of your car. Most people think of the engine and brake system as being important, but the steering system plays a vital role as well.
If you can’t steer your car, then how are you supposed to drive it? Well, the answer is you can’t. All the systems of a car work together to make the car useable and if any fail, then the car will not work right.
Your steering system is just one of those systems, but it is one that is overlooked a lot of times until there is a problem. One of the main and biggest problems that can happen with your steering system is the steering rack and pinion going out.
In this article, we will explain what happens when the steering rack and pinion fail and also signs to help you notice it before it occurs so you can prevent it.
Before going into what happens when the steering rack and pinion fail we will first explain what the steering rack and pinion is and what it does.
The rack and pinion steering system in most vehicles is actually multiple parts. The main part is the gearbox in the middle. The more common name for the gearbox is the steering rack.
The steering rack is the part that receives direct input from the driver. It is what the steering column goes into, and when the driver turns the wheel, it is the steering rack that sends the proper information to the other parts of the steering system.
The steering rack is the heart of the steering system, and all the other parts connect to it. The other parts are revered to as the pinions.
This includes universal joints, main and intermediate shafts, and other things such as the tie rod. These parts can also wear out over time but isn’t as major as when the steering rack goes out.
So now that you know that the steering rack is the main component of the steering system, you may really be wondering what happens if it fails, or if some of the pinions fail.
Well, if the steering rack fails completely, then major issues occur. The most important thing that happens if the steering rack completely goes out is that you will lose control of the car.
That is because turning the wheel will have no effect. If the steering rack is out completely and not making contact with other parts, then it can’t send the information needed to the other parts of the car as you try to steer.
If the steering rack is just starting to go out though and hasn’t failed completely, then it will just be hard to steer. Depending on what is wrong with the steering rack will determine how hard it is to steer the vehicle and also how much it will cost to fix.
If a pinion or other part of the steering system fails completely, then again you can lose complete control of the steering. This is because the system might be broken to the point of not working.
If however, just a pinion component is starting to fail, then the steering might be harder. There are a lot of different signs though that you can pay attention to, to notice if the steering system is starting to fail.
Paying attention for the things to follow is important because if the steering system goes out while driving, then there is a good chance you will wreck. That is why it is key to pay attention to the following things and fix a minor problem before it becomes a major one.
One of the first things you might notice when the steering rack or pinion is failing is tight steering. The steering might get to the point of being very tight. This is especially true if your car has power steering.
If your car doesn’t have power steering, then it might not tighten up as much. The reason tight steering is a sign of problems is that it means that the gearbox might be getting too hot or that there is not enough power steering fluid getting to it.
Also, tight steering can mean a loss of hydraulic pressure to the steering. If you notice tight steering, then you should have your car checked out. A lot of times the problem is minor and easy to fix if caught early.
An obvious sign of problems with the steering system is leaking power steering fluid. The power steering fluid is what helps lubricate the system and also helps with the hydraulic pressure.
If it is leaking, then the steering will not act right, and also there is an obvious problem as it should not leak. Leaking fluid could mean a part has a hole in it or that there is a break in the system preventing it from being sealed.
If you repair the leak early, then most other things should be fine, but if you drive with low power steering fluid, then it will damage more parts of the system.
Any fluid under your car is a sign for concern, that is why you should keep an eye on these types of things, and if you notice a leak from anywhere in your vehicle, then you should have it checked out and fixed.
The next issue can be caused by a variety of things in the steering system, but it is grinding sounds while steering. These sounds can occur at any speed from slow to fast and can mean different things depending on when they happen.
The key thing to remember though is that your car should not make noise when steering. If your car does make any kind of grinding, squealing, whining, or any other type of sound while steering, then it means issues are going on.
Normally it means that something is worn out, but replacing it early will prevent other things from getting damaged and prevent bigger problems.
The last sign of a steering rack or pinion failing is a burning oil smell. This is less common than most of the others, but still a sign that there is a problem.
That is because power steering fluid burning normally smells like burnt oil, so if you smell this smell and it is coming from the steering system, then it likely means that the gearbox is getting too hot.
If the gearbox gets too hot, this can lead to fire and major damage. That is why if you notice this smell and think it is the gearbox and not oil burning that you pull over and investigate the problem.
Let the gearbox cool off before driving again and get the vehicle to a mechanic to have it looked at.
So, now you know what happens when the power steering rack and pinion goes out. You know that if they go out completely that you will lose control of the vehicle and wreck.
You also know though that normally they don’t go out all at once, but instead, minor things start to happen like noises and tight steering.
If you notice any of these things, then you now know to have your vehicles steering system checked out and the problem fixed before it gets worse.
A lot of time the steering system is not too expensive to fix and caught early. However, if you let the problem go on the fixes can get expensive and be dangerous. If the power steering rack fails completely, then you are in trouble.
A key component in your car is the battery. If the battery is not charged enough, then the car won’t start. How can you know if your battery is good or not? Well, you can test it, but you can also rely on your battery indicator light working properly.
What does it mean though when your battery light on your dash goes on and off though? Does it mean that the battery is going bad?
Well, read on to find out exactly what it means when the battery light goes on and off while driving and also what you should do about it.
The battery light serves two main purposes in your car. One is to let you know when there is an issue with the battery, but the other is to let you know if there is something wrong with the alternator.
When the battery light goes on and off while driving, it means you are having some sort of issues with one of these two things.
Normally it is a good idea to check these things out as soon as possible because if either stop working properly, then you will be left stranded.
The battery light on your dashboard is important to look out for a while driving. Sometimes it can be hard to notice it come on as well because it might only blink on for a second or two before going back off. Other times it may stay on longer.
Depending on when the battery warning light comes on might help you figure out what is wrong. If the light comes on when just driving normal on a smooth road, then it is most likely more of an issue with the alternator not putting out enough charge or not working properly.
On the other hand, if the light comes on when you hit a bump in the road or are going around a curve, then the problem is more likely to be a connection issue with a wire.
This is because a bump or curve can cause a wire that is barely connected to shift and lose connection. The reason your car doesn’t just die when the connection is lost is that your car can run off the battery charge for a while.
Also, if the alternator is working right, then it can put off enough charge to run the car even if the battery is not connected.
So, now we can get in-depth more on the possible issues that are happening when your battery light goes on and off while driving.
The first and worse one is that the alternator is not working properly. An alternator normal doesn’t just die and stop working.
Instead, it malfunctions and stops working slowly. This means that it will work, stop, and work again and sometimes it will do this quickly, while other times it will be longer between the cycle.
This is why your battery light might come on for a bit when the alternator isn’t working and then go off when it starts working again.
The alternator is a key part of your car because it helps take mechanical energy from your car and converts it to electrical energy to recharge the battery, so the battery can start your car again the next time it is needed too.
If you don’t have a working alternator, your car will eventually stop working. If it goes all the way out, then your vehicle will die pretty quickly, and you will be stranded.
This is why it is important to check your alternator if your battery light starts to blink on and off. The first thing to check with the alternator is to make sure all the wires are connected properly.
If there are any loose wires, then tighten them. After making sure all the wires are connected, you can test the alternator.
Testing the alternator is easy to do. All you need is a voltmeter. Hook the voltmeter up to the battery and see what the reading is. It should be at least 12 volts.
Then start the car and see what the reading is. The reading should jump up to around 14 volts if the alternator is working right.
If the reading does not move up or if the number starts to drop, then the alternator is not working properly and will need to be repaired or replaced.
You can most likely need to take your car to a shop and have this done unless you are a mechanic and good with cars. If the alternator is fine, but you are still having the battery light come on, then it is time to check the battery itself.
The first thing you should do when checking the battery is to make sure all the wires are connected tightly. If the wires come loose for moments while driving, then that can be why the battery light is coming on and then going off.
One key thing to do when checking the wires tightness is to also make sure that they are clean. If the connection is dirty, then this can affect it as well. Clean off the battery terminals when checking the wires to make sure there is no corrosion on them.
After checking the wires, you can check the battery. If you haven’t already connected a voltmeter to the battery when checking the alternator, then you can do that now.
The reading should be at least 12 volts. If it is less than that, then the battery is not holding a charge and will need to be replaced. If it is, then you can go to any local auto tool shop, and most will test your battery for free.
More: You can use the best battery maintainer to charge your car battery in ways that avoid the potential damaging effects that can be caused by other charger.
They will hook a device up to it, and the device will make sure that the battery is working and charging right. The device can also normally check the alternator as well, so it isn’t a bad idea to have them look at your vehicle even if you have checked the alternator with the voltmeter yourself. This way you will know for sure all your issues are taken care of.
After checking the alternator and the battery, you should have the problem found of why your battery indicator light keeps coming on and off while driving.
Normally it is a failing alternator, but if it mainly happens when hitting bumps, then it could be as simple as loose wires. Luckily for you, you now know the possible reasons why your battery indicator light keeps going on and off while driving and you also know what to do about it, so if it happens to you, you can get the problem fixed before getting stranded somewhere from a bad battery or alternator.
So, you may have an odd smell in your car or garage and not be able to figure out where it is coming from. Well, depending on what that smell, smells like, then it might be coming from your car, mower, or something else battery.
In this article, we will talk about what battery acid smells like and also touch on what it means when you are able to smell the battery acid coming from a battery.
Read on to find out exactly what battery acid smells like and if different types of batteries have different smells.
So, before getting into detail on what battery acid smells like, we will first cover why you might smell battery acid in your garage or car. There are a few reasons why you might smell battery acid.
The first is that you might have had a battery get damaged and crack or bust. This can happen for a variety of reasons. If you drop a battery from high enough, then it might break the case and cause battery acid to come out.
Another reason why a battery might start leaking though is because it has burst. A battery can burst from overcharging or getting too hot. It is most common to happen if you leave a battery connected to a continuous charge.
More: Overcharging is bad for your battery. A battery tender is smart and will not overcharge the battery. So that is why best battery tender is the way to go if you are going to keep the battery on a charger for a long term.
That is why pulse chargers are better to use, and charges that shut off when the battery is full are the best. If you have a damaged battery, then it is important not to use it anymore.
Another reason why you might smell battery acid is if the battery takes to water. Some batteries you have to add water too because it evaporates over time.
These kinds of batteries are not sealed, and you have to open them up and pour water into them to keep the acid mixture correct. If you don’t, then the mixture will become wrong and cause the battery to start to smell like battery acid.
If you start to smell battery acid and have this type of battery, then you will just need to open the battery up, add water, and it should stop smelling and start working right again. It is important to keep water in it so it will work right and not damage the battery.
The last reason why you might smell battery acid from your battery is that the battery just may be bad. As batteries age, they will start to smell like battery acid. This is just something natural that happens as they break down.
The chemicals can only be charged so many times before they stop working right and when they stop working right, they start to smell more.
If your battery is a sealed one and the case isn’t damaged, but it is smelling, then it just means that it is old and needs to be replaced. If your battery isn’t holding a charge or dying frequently and you smell a funky smell, then it is probably your battery.
So, now that you know what it means when a battery smells like battery acid, you are probably wondering even more what battery acid smells like. Well, depending on the type of battery and the person smelling it, it can smell like a couple different things.
One of the most common explanations for the smell of battery acid is that it smells like sulfur. If you don’t know what sulfur smells like, then most people would say that it smells like rotten eggs.
What do rotten eggs smell like though? Well, if you have been lucky enough never to have to smell rotten eggs, then the closest answer to what it smells like is a boiled egg only worse.
If you don’t know what boiled eggs smell like, then you can make one to get an idea. Rotten eggs and sulfur have a strong and distinct smell and once you smell it once you will recognize it, but if you haven’t smelled it before, then it is hard to describe.
The other most common thing that people say battery acid smells like is vinegar. That is because most battery acid is or has sulfuric acid in it and that has a similar smell to vinegar.
Vinegar has a strong sour smell that can sometimes almost burn the inside of your nose if you have it to close to your nose when you smell it. It has a bitter smell to it.
If you don’t know what vinegar smells like, then you can get some and smell it or just think about how pickles, coleslaw, or other food items with vinegar smell to get an idea and realize that battery acid smells strong than this because it is not diluted by other things.
The last thing we will touch on now that you know that it smells like is if it is safe. You might be worried to remove a damaged battery that smells bad, but really battery acid is not that harmful.
Most are diluted, so it has a PH of zero. This means it won’t hurt you if it gets on you. Just make sure not to eat or ingest any battery acid, but if it gets on your skin just wash it off, and it won’t hurt you.
It is still important to dispose of batteries properly though, so if yours smells and you are replacing it be sure to dispose of the old one correctly.
So, now you know what battery acid smells like. You know that it normally smells like sulfur or rotten eggs or it can smell like vinegar depending on how your nose works.
You also now know what it means when you can smell the battery acid of your battery and what you should do about it. You know that it is safe to replace the battery yourself even if it smells bad and that you just need to dispose of the old battery correctly.
While battery acid smells bad it isn’t bad for you to inhale, so you don’t have to worry about any health concerns if you walk into your garage and smell these smells. J
ust remove the problem and let the garage air out. Now you know what might be causing funky smells in your garage or car that you can’t find and even more importantly you now know what battery acid smells like.
A key component in any vehicle is the battery. If the battery is not working right, then the rest of your car will not work right either. The main problem that happens with batteries is that they lose charge or stop charging effectively over time.
As batteries age, they struggle with holding a charge. Some vehicles have a battery gauge on the dash and sometimes the needle jumps around.
Does the needle jumping mean your battery is bad? Well, read on to find out the answer to that question and to find out what it really means when your battery gauge goes up and down.
Before going into detail about what it means when your battery gauge jumps around, we will first talk about what the battery gauge on your dash actually is.
Not all cars have the battery gauge on the dash, but it is a useful thing to have because the battery gauge is essentially a voltmeter that is always connected to your battery.
A voltmeter is a tool used to get the reading of how much power is in your battery. The needle may move some while driving, but in reality, the needle shouldn’t move much while driving if everything is working right.
That is why it is a concern when it does jump around while driving.
You may be wondering to yourself why the needle shouldn’t move while driving. You may be thinking there is power being taken from the battery by the radio, headlights, and other parts of the car while driving, so shouldn’t that make the needle go down?
Well, this is true that power is being taken from the battery, but power is also being given to the battery while driving. That is the purpose of the alternator.
So, does the needle in the battery gauge jumping around means the battery is bad. No, it actually typically means that you have a problem with your alternator.
Your alternator is responsible for taking extra mechanical power from the engine and turning it into electrical energy to recharge the battery or keep it charged. Using best battery tender to do that is excellent decision.
The needle jumping means that the battery isn’t getting the same amount of charge consistently.
The reason the needle jumping doesn’t mean that the battery is bad is that if you have a battery not holding a charge that will only cause the needle to not go up as high on the gauge, but it won’t cause the gauge to jump.
What causes the gauge to jump is that the charge of the battery is changing and this can be quickly or slowly depending on the problem with the alternator and if it is cutting out and dying or something else.
The first thing to check when you have your cars battery gauge jumping around is the serpentine or alternator drive belt. The belt is what connects the engine to the alternator, and if the belt is not working right then, the alternator won’t work right either.
When checking the belt you want to check two things. Those two things are the wear on the belt and also its tightness. If the belt is starting to look old, then that can cause the tension to change while driving.
If you see any visible damage or wear on the belt, then it is a good idea to change it. Changing the belt could solve all your problems with the battery gauge jumping.
If the belt does not look wore out, then the next thing to check is how tight it is. The belt needs tension to be able to transfer the power from the engine to the alternator.
It does this by spinning along with the engine and turning a wheel on the alternator. If the belt is loose, then it may slip and this will cause the alternator wheel not to spin and will, therefore, cause the alternator not to work.
You want to make sure the belt is tight, so all the parts will spin. However, you don’t want to tighten it over because this can make it hard to spin for the opposite reason. Also, having the belt too tight can lead to it breaking or wearing out sooner.
If the belt seems fine and it is the correct tightness, but you are still having issues with the battery gauge jumping, then you will have to test the alternator.
The easiest way to test the alternator at home is to connect a voltmeter to the battery. The battery should read around 14.4 volts with the car running and not fluctuate.
If it is reading less than this, but not changing, then the battery is weak, but the issue isn’t the alternator.
If the reading is jumping, then you will need to have your alternator checked out by a professional because it isn’t working right. It could be as simple as a bad wire or connection, or it could be that your alternator needs replaced.
Before condemning the alternator though, one other thing that can cause the battery gauge to go up and down is if the wires aren’t connected well or are corroded.
It is important to keep your wires clean and connected tightly to the battery. Clean off any corrosion and tighten down any loose wires before replacing the alternator unless you know for sure it is bad.
Bad connections can cause reading spikes, and it is a lot cheaper to clean and tighten wires than to replace the alternator
Now you know though what it means when your battery gauge jumps up and down. You know that it doesn’t mean that the battery is bad, but instead normally means that you have an issue with the alternator.
You should understand better why that is the case and you also know some things to check and ways to fix the problem. You know to check all the wire connections and clean any corrosion.
You also know to check the alternator belt and replace if worn or make sure it is tightened correctly. Lastly, if neither of these things solves the problem then you know to test the alternator and replace it if bad.
Your battery is key to driving your car, so you want to make sure it is charging right before you get stranded somewhere and if you notice your battery gauge jumping, then you should have things taken care of right away.
One of the common luxuries most cars have these days is an air conditioner. This convenience helps keep you cool in the summer.
Another thing that most cars have today is a heating system to help keep you warm in the winter or cooler months. These to things do the opposite of each other, but they have one part in common.
That is the blower motor. In this article, we will look at what the blower motor is and also why it might stop working.
Sometimes it may stop working just at certain speeds, but in this article, we are going to mainly focus on why the blower motor won’t work on any speed.
Read on to learn everything you need to know about your car’s blower motor, why it might stop working, and also some solutions on how to fix it.
Before getting into details of why your blower motor might stop working it is a good idea to have a basic understanding of what your blower motor actually is.
Your car’s blower motor is the part that is responsible for pushing air through your vents. This can be cool air from the AC or warm air from the heater, but it is your blower motor that moves the air thru the vents.
The blower motor is basically a high powered fan that pushes the air thru the system.
Blower motors can come in two types. A three or four-speed system, and a variable speed system. On a three or four speed system, this means that the motor will run at three or four predetermined speeds.
On a variable speed system it the blower will constantly change the speed that it is blowing. It is important to know what kind of blower you have because certain problems only happen with certain blowers.
Normally though variable speed blowers are on vehicles with automatic climate control where three or four-speed motors are on everything else.
Now that you know what the blower motor is we can start going into why it might not be working on any speed.
There are a few reasons why your blower motor may stop working. We are going to list them out here and if you want to jump to a specific section you can, but the main reasons a blower motor will stop working on any speed is:
The most common reason why your blower motor won’t work on any speed is that you have a bad or blown a fuse. A fuse is a small wire inside of a connector that is used to protect the motor itself from a surge of electricity.
It is better for the fuse to blow if it gets too much of a current than for your whole blower motor to get fried. Most cars have the fuse in a fuse box under the hood or in a fuse panel under the dash.
You can locate the fuse to your blower motor. If it is blown, then all you have to do is replace it, and that should fix the motor.
You want to make sure to check the blower motor fuse and also the HVAC controller fuse because either one of these being blown can cause the blower motor to stop working. If it is not blown, then you will have to look farther into the issue.
Another thing that is tied to bad fuses is bad relays. The relays are basically larger fuses. Normally though they are not the issue if the blower motor won’t work on any speed though because there is a relay for high speed and low speed if it is something to keep in mind and check because it is possible that both could go bad at the same time.
This is especially true if they somehow got melted from getting too hot. It doesn’t take long to test relays, so while checking the fuses, you might as well check the high and low-speed relays to make sure they are working right.
The next reason that your blower motor may not be working is that it might have a bad ground connection.
To test this, you can run a fused jumper from a battery to the power side of the motor and attach a temporary grounding jumper to the other motor terminal.
This will provide grounding for the motor, and it should run at high speed. If it does, then you know that the issue is that the motor is not being grounded. When testing your battery, if the battery has low charge, you can recharge it by using best battery maintainer, the tender will keep your battery fully charged and by the way, it will also minimize the risks of long-term damage to the battery due to either under-charging or over-charging
The way to fix this is to locate the grounding point for the motor and clean it. After a good cleaning and making sure the motor is connected to the grounding point try to power the motor using the car and see if it works. If it does, then your probably is solved.
Another way you can test to see if it is a bad ground connection is to disconnect the electrical connector at the blower motor and then attach a multimeter to the motor.
Then turn your key to the run position and see how much voltage you are getting. It should be 12+ volts. If you have a reading, then connect one lead to the power terminal on the motor and the other to the ground.
This will let you know if the ground is good. If it is, then you most likely have a dead motor, but if it isn’t, then that is a sign that the motor is not being grounded and you can clean it like previously mentioned.
This should fix the problem, but if it doesn’t, then you might have to try cleaning the grounding connection more, but first, you should check the speed control module.
The speed control module is responsible for controlling the speed of the motor. This is true for variable speed motors. If the speed control module goes out, then the motor will not run.
To test the control module, you can disconnect the electrical connector at the blower motor. Also, disconnect the jumper power and ground connections.
You want to bypass the speed control. Then run a fused jumper from a battery to the power side of the motor and connect a temporary grounding jumper to the other motor terminal.
The motor should run at full speed. If it doesn’t then the issue is something else. If it does run at full speed though, then you know that the issue lies in the blower motor speed controller or the HVAC control head, but you will have to use a scan tool to see which one of those is the problem and then have it replaced.
If none of these past things seem to be the problem, then the last bit is that you have a bad motor.
It is actually pretty uncommon for the motor to go out itself before something else and you normally have a warning when it is about to fail because it will start running poorly and squeak or slow down and things, but sometimes blower motors do go out.
If you can’t get the motor to run with these troubleshooting tips, then you will need to replace the motor because it is most likely dead, but do these other things first.
Knowing the circuitry of your motor is important because you will need to know that to find where the ground is and different things.
If you don’t know the circuitry of your motor or the type of motor you have, then you can look it up and find specific information for your vehicle. This is also important for locating fuses and relays.
Now you know the possible reasons why your blower motor won’t work on any speed. You know that the most common issue is a blown a fuse, but also sometimes the speed control module can go out if you have a variable speed motor.
You know how to check these things now though and also how to fix them. You also know that both variable speed motors and three or four-speed motors can suffer from bad grounding.
After reading this, you can test for that issue too and fix it.
Lastly, you know if all else fails, then the motor is probably bad and needs to be replaced. You know that the blower motor is the key part in moving the air in your AC and heat system and that you should replace a blower motor that isn’t working on any speed right away so you can stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter while driving.
Your car’s battery is a key component in it. A lot of people have experienced a dead battery and the issues that have caused you. Your car uses the battery to send power to the spark plugs to get the engine to turn over.
This means that if you have a weak battery, your car won’t even start. However, some people still wonder if you can run a car without your battery?
Well, read on to find the answer to this question and also all the important details pertaining to this question. The answer may actually surprise you.
So, before getting into the answer of if you can run your car without the battery or not, we will first take a brief look at the electrical system to help understand this question.
The electrical system is composed of your car’s battery, the alternator, and all the other electrical components. The battery is normally used to run anything needed power, and the alternator takes extra mechanical power from the engine and uses it to recharge the battery.
This process continues while the car is running and then when you turn it off you should have a charged battery that is ready to start your car again.
So based off of this explanation it would sound like you can not run your car without the battery because the battery is what supplies the power to everything that needs it.
Well, this assumption that you can’t run your car without the battery is false. You actually can run a car without the battery, assuming that it is already started and running.
That is because the alternator can provide the power to the system if there is not a battery there to run them. Continue reading to learn how this works and why it works.
More: A battery tender (or maintainer) is designed to fully charge and maintain most batteries in ways that avoid the potential damaging effects that can be caused by other charger. So you should choose the best battery tender to protect your car battery.
The alternator is generally strong enough to power the basic things because it normally puts off 14 volts of electricity. You may know that a car battery is normally only 12 volts.
The extra volts that the alternator puts off is so the battery can get fully charged while being drained, but if the battery isn’t there, then the alternator can send the power it is putting off to the electrical components that need them.
So, yes you can run a running car without the battery. It is just ran off the alternator if the battery is not present.
Just because you can do something though leads to the question of should you do it. In this instance should you ever run your car off the alternator and disconnect the battery while the car is running.
The answer to this is normally no; you should not run your car without a battery. This is for multiple reasons.
The main reason why you should not run your car without the battery is that the alternator doesn’t always put off even amounts of power.
This means that as the car runs the alternator can spike with the power output that it is putting out. Your battery can handle these spikes and has buffers designed to protect it, but other parts of your cars electrical system does not have protection against these spikes.
That means that parts of your electrical system could get fried or blow if you are running them off the alternator instead of the battery.
Outside of surges and possible damage to your car you should also not run the car without a battery because it puts extra stress on the alternator.
This is because the alternator is not designed to run parts of the vehicle but instead is intended to charge the battery. Whenever you use something for a purpose that it wasn’t made for you, risk damaging it.
There are very few reasons why it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery while the car is running even though you technically can, and the vehicle would stay running.
You may have disconnected your battery while the car was running before or had someone tell you it is okay, but it is not recommended.
You might do it a bunch, or they might have done it a bunch and had no bad luck with surges, but it only takes one time and one surge to ruin the whole electrical system of your car.
So it is important to remember the risk involved in running your car without the battery before doing it even though you can.
So, this might lead you to the question of why can you not start the car without the battery? If the alternator can run the car and electrical components while the car is running, why can’t it put off power to start the car?
Well, the reason that the alternator can’t be used to start the car goes back to how it works and what it is made to do. It is made to convert mechanical power from the engine to electrical power.
The alternator just converts power and does not store power. That is why a car has a battery. The batteries job is to store power so the car can use it when it is not running and has no other source of power.
This is why if your battery is dead you can’t start your car and why also why you can’t start your car without your battery.
So, now you know that you actually can run your car without the battery. This might be a surprise to some people since the battery is such an important part, but as long as the car is running the alternator can provide enough power to keep it running and power the different systems.
However, just because you can run your car without the battery doesn’t mean you should. You risk damage to your alternator and the rest of your car if there is a power surge.
That means you shouldn’t risk running your car without the battery unless you have a very good reason.
Also, it is important to remember your car won’t start without the battery, so if you are running it without the battery don’t expect to be able to start it again until you connect the battery.
Now you know all you need to know to answer the question of can you run your car without the battery?
Your car has many different systems, and they all serve their purpose. The main system in the car is the engine. This is what allows your car to run, but at the end of that system is the resonator and muffler.
Most people don’t think about the exhaust system for their vehicle and what it consists of or what it actually does. In this article, we will take a closer look at the exhaust system and explain what some of the parts do.
The main part we will be looking at is the resonator and answering the question of do you need a resonator in your exhaust system.
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Before getting into if you need a resonator or not, we first have to look at what it is. You can’t determine if you need something if you don’t know what it does after all.
A lot of times people get the resonator confused with the muffler. The two parts are not the same thing. The muffler is the part that sticks out of the rear of the car, and the resonator falls right before it.
The resonators job is to reduce the sound before it gets to the muffler. This makes the mufflers job easier and allows you to have more power and better fuel efficiency.
An exhaust resonator is a chamber or tube that is a cylinder. It is the first part of the muffler and normally right after the catalytic converter, but not all mufflers have resonators attached.
The thing is resonators can be shaped differently and designed differently depending on the vehicle. We don’t need to get into the specifics though of the different shapes to understand how they function though.
To understand how it works you need a basic understanding of what it looks like, and it is a tubed chamber is enough. The basics of how the resonator reduces the sound are the sound enter it, and then the sound waves bounce off the walls of the resonator.
As they bounce off the walls, they change pitch and then sounds of the same pitch hit each other canceling each other out.
With the resonator, it actually cancels the higher pitch sounds out easier, and those are the ones that the muffler has a harder time with, so by the sound waves passing thru the resonator before the muffler, it reduces the tough sounds and also changes the sounds.
The resonator will resonate some, and that is how it gets its name and also how the sounds are changed some.
Outside of reducing the sound through the resonator also creates back pressure in the exhaust system. This helps the car to be more fuel efficient.
The back pressure makes sure the exhaust comes out at the proper rate. This allows for top performance with the least amount of sound.
If the resonator provides so much good then with reducing sound and increasing performance and efficiency, then why remove it? Well, some people want their cars to be louder than stock.
Some people like the sound that comes from the power of their engine. If you want your car to be louder, you can change the muffler, but another option is to remove the resonator or put in a different one.
So, now that you know what the resonator does in your car’s exhaust system we can address the question of should you remove the resonator.
The answer is it depends on what you are trying to achieve. If you want a little more noise from your car, then you should probably not remove the resonator.
Just change the type of muffler you have on it. If you want a lot more noise though, then you could consider removing the resonator and just putting a straight pipe in.
Also, with some cars, the resonator is connected to the muffler, so if you want to change the muffler, you will have to change or remove the resonator by default.
Removing the resonator is purely for a sound point though. It will not give you any more power by removing it.
It can actually cause your car to have less power or be less fuel efficient because like we have mentioned the resonator helps make back pressure that keeps the exhaust flowing right.
Some people just like louder sounding cars though and if that is you then removing the resonator is an option. One last thing to remember though is removing the resonator might not give you more of the sound you want.
Most people like the deep roar sound and the resonator mainly blocks out the higher pitch sounds that aren’t desirable. Also, with some vehicles, the resonator doesn’t affect the sound that comes out of the car that can be heard outside, but only reduces the sound you hear on the inside so it might just make your ride louder inside, but not affect the sound of the car.
So, now that you have read this you should be able to make the decision on if removing your exhaust resonator is right for you. You now know what the resonator is and that it is different than the muffler.
You also know the basics of how it works and the kinds of sounds it blocks out and how it does it. With this information, you can determine if you want your car to be louder and if removing the resonator might provide the sound you want.
If you want your car to be a little louder, then I would recommend leaving the resonator on, but if you want the car to be a lot louder and don’t care about fuel efficiency, you can remove it completely.
The other option is taking the middle ground of changing the muffler and or the resonator. With your exhaust sometimes you might have to experiment to get the sound you want and test to see if removing the resonator on your exhaust is the right thing for you to get the desired sound from your vehicle.
So to wrap it up and answer the question with a direct answer, do you need an exhaust resonator? No, but it is useful and recommended in most situations.
When needing a new battery for your lawn tractor, it can be hard to find the right one. That is because there are so many different batteries to choose from.
Luckily for you in this article, we have compiled a list of the best lawn tractor batteries for you. The thing is this list is also great for anyone looking for a lawn mower battery.
The batteries on this list are some of the best lawn mower batteries as well. Read on to find out which of these batteries is the best and also the difference between a lawn tractor and lawn mower battery.
Before getting into the specific batteries, we will take a look between the differences of a lawn tractor battery and a lawn mower battery. The main difference between the two is the power that it can put out.
This is especially true on the startup or cold cranking amp power. Both lawn tractors and lawn mowers run on twelve-volt batteries, so that part is the same, but since lawn tractors are normally bigger than lawn mowers, the battery for them tends to put out more power on startup.
This means that if you have a battery rated for a lawn tractor, it will have no problem starting a lawn mower, but if it is a battery rated to start a lawnmower, then it might struggle with starting a lawn tractor.
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The first battery we have on our list is from ExpertPower and is the EXP 12200. This battery is standard size and measures 3 inches x 6.5 inches x 7.1 inches, and it weighs 12.5 pounds.
The battery is durable and built well. The rugged construction allows it to withstand bumps and vibration. This battery is a sealed lead acid battery and uses AGM (Absorbed Glass Mats), so it won’t leak and can be mounted in any position.
There is no maintenance for this battery besides keeping it charged, and it is valve regulated. This battery is a 20 amp hour battery, so it can keep going for a while.
The EXP 12200 is a right side positive battery, and the terminals are a B1 type. The terminals are also threaded to help make sure that the cables stay connected once installed.
Users like how easy it is to install this battery and how well it fits in and replaces most batteries. A few users have had small size issues, and some users have gotten bad ones, but that can happen with any battery.
Outside of these small things the ExpertPower EXP12200 is a solid replacement battery for your lawn mower or lawn tractor.
Next, we have a battery from Mighty Max, and it is the ML35-12. This battery has dimensions of 7.68 inches x 5.16 inches x 7.13 inches and weighs 23.15 pounds making it pretty standard.
This battery has a strong construction as well and can be mounted in any position also because it is an SLA/AGM battery. The battery is leak proof and valve regulated.
The positive terminal on this battery is located on the left side. The battery is easy to mount and comes with the screws needed.
The ML35-12 is called that because it is a 12-volt battery with 35 amp hours of power making it strong enough for any lawn tractor or lawn mower. The battery has deep cycles and discharges and recharges well.
Users like how easy it is to install and how well it replaces most other batteries.
The only complaints have been from people getting dead ones, but the good thing with the Mighty Max is it has a 30-day replacement policy and then a 1-year warranty meaning you won’t have any trouble getting your ML35-12 switched out if an issue does come about making it a top lawn battery option.
Moving along we have the UB12350 from Universal Power Group. This battery is another SLA/AGM battery and comes with all the benefits that those offers which is leak proof and mountable in any position.
The size of this battery is 7.75 inches x 5.19 inches x 7.13 inches making it pretty much the same size as the rest, and it weighs 22.5 pounds. The case on this battery is again top construction, and it is designed to resist shocks and vibrations which is good because lawn tractor and lawn mower batteries get jarred around a lot while being used.
The UB12350 is a standard 12-volt battery, but it is stronger with 35 amp hours of power making it a great option. You won’t have to worry about this battery not putting enough juice out to start your mower.
The battery will deep cycle, and it recharges well. The positive terminal is on the left side. Users have had good luck with this battery working how it is supposed too and fitting well.
The last, we have a battery from Chrome Battery, and it is similar to the rest in the size department. This battery is 7.68 inches x 6.46 inches x 5.12 inches and weighs 21.71 pounds.
The terminal on this battery is located on the left side and is a standard T3 terminal. The battery is rechargeable multiple times and is a regular SLA/AGM battery.
It is 12 volts, but has 35 amp hours making it stronger than some other batteries, but helps it fit right in with most of the batteries on this list.
The case is ruggedly built which allows the battery to handle vibrations and shock. It can be mounted in any position that you need too and is leak-proof since it is an AGM battery.
The install is fast with this battery, and it comes fully charged, so you just have to connect it and go. Some years have had issues with theirs not holding a good charge when not in use, and some have found it didn’t last as long as they would like, but that could be due to soaring conditions.
So, now the question comes which one of these lawn tractor batteries should you get for your lawn mower or lawn tractor. Well, the answer is any of them can be the best lawn mower or best lawn tractor battery depending on the size of battery you need.
The key is to measure the space that you have to put the battery in and also make sure to get one that has the terminal on the correct side.
If you do these things and make sure to get a battery that will fit, then it should be perfect for your needs.
You can’t go wrong with any of the batteries on this list. They are all great lawn tractor and lawn mower batteries. They have enough power to start anything that you throw at them, and as long as they fit into your lawn mower or lawn tractor, they will work for you.
All the batteries we have looked at here are top quality AGM batteries that have no maintenance outside of charging and are leak and spill proof. This means you can mount them in whatever position you need and get the most out of them.
After reading this you know to just make sure to pick a battery that will fit your equipment. If you do that, then one of the batteries will be the best lawn tractor battery or best lawn mower battery for you.
When it comes to charging something, mainly a battery, there are a variety of type/method that can be used. Each type has its positives and negatives. In this article, we will discuss the common basic charging types.
Read on to learn the different charging types that are possible as well as what sets them apart. We will give details so you understand what is going on with each type and also when or why you might want to use a particular type.
Before going into deep detail, we will list out the nine basic charging types. Each one has a purpose, and if you want to learn about a particular one, then you can jump straight to it. The main charging types are:
The first type of charging a battery we will look at is a constant voltage. A constant voltage does what the name implies and provides a constant voltage to the battery.
These types of chargers are generally cheap and simple. In the simplest form, a constant voltage charger can be a DC (direct current) power supply with a step-down transformer that rectifies the power.
You can use this type of charger for both lead-acid cells as well as lithium-ion cells. However, the lithium-ion charger is normally a bit more advanced for the safety of you and the battery. The reason why these are good is that they are cost-effective, but there are better options.
The next type of charging is a constant current. This is similar to constant voltage because it keeps one aspect of the charging constant, but this time it is the current or flow of electricity thru the battery at the constant.
The way it does this is that it changes the voltage, so the current coming out is always equal. When the battery gets fully charged it is able to stop charging.
Most of the time this type of charging is used for nickel-metal hybrid cells and nickel-cadmium batteries. The reason this type of charger is good is that it stops charging when the battery is full, but other types can also do this and work better for certain types of batteries.
The next type of charging is taper current. This type can damage batteries very easily. You can get away with it with some SLA batteries, but it is a good idea to keep an eye on the charging of your battery.
This is because the taper current does not provide a constant voltage. It is a crude type that sends in a voltage that causes the current to diminish as the cell voltage builds up.
The voltage going into the battery is unregulated. This charging should not be used except for the last resort because there are better and safer options.
The next type is a very good type to help extend your battery life, and that is pulse charging. As the name suggests, the energy goes into the battery in pulses.
The current goes in as a pulse, and you can set how long of pulse period you want. Normally it is around 1 second. Then, you have 20 milliseconds to 30 milliseconds of rest between pulses.
This resting period allows the battery to stabilize. By stabilizing it means that the battery is able to equalize the reaction across most of the electrodes before the next charge pulse comes in.
By being allowed to stabilize it allows the chemical reaction to keep pace with the incoming charge. This prevents unwanted chemical reactions at the electrode surface such as gas being formed.
It also prevents the formation of crystals and passivation. This type is good for any battery.
The next type of charging is burp charging which expands on pulse charging. It is just like pulse charging, but with an added step. Before the next pulse goes in, with burp charging it sends a discharge pulse in.
This depolarizes the cells and helps to eliminate any gas bubbles that have built up. The releasing of the gas bubbles is known as burping. Other names for this type of charging are reflex or negative pulse charging.
This type of charging is supposed to extend battery life more and allow for faster charging, but there is no conclusive evidence of this. The only evidence is that burp charging can’t hurt a battery, so it doesn’t hurt to try it if you are a fan of pulse charging.
The next kind of charging is a newer type for lead-acid batteries, and that is IUI charging. This type is not for all lead-acid batteries, so you want to make sure yours is compatible.
IUI charging is done in stages, and the first stage is bulk charging where it is charged at a constant rate until it reaches a preset point where gases start to form.
When it reaches this point the charger switches into a middle phase that provides a constant voltage and the current drawn by the battery will slowly drop until it reaches a particular point and the current drops at a diminishing rate.
Once it reaches this second preset point the battery switches back to a constant current mode and charges the battery to a higher preset point until it reaches that and then the charger shuts off completely.
This final charge helps stabilize the battery and makes sure that the cells are equally charged ensuring longer battery life.
The next type, trickle charging, is designed for battery maintenance. This type is not for bringing a battery back from being dead but is instead designed to keep a battery that is not in use charged.
With trickle charging a small current is applied to the battery at the rate that the battery is discharging. This keeps it charged and ready to go and helps keep chemicals from building up on the inside of the battery hurting its life.
Some charges automatically switch to a trickle charge mode when a battery is fully charged. You can’t use this charging on all batteries though. You shouldn’t use it on NiMH or lithium because they are easily overcharged.
The next type is similar to trickle charge in that it does not overcharge the battery. Float charging is mainly used on lead-acid batteries, and it holds the voltage of the battery at a point that is below the maximum charge.
It is for emergencies mainly and is good for battery backup. The way it works is the battery and load are permanently connected in parallel across the DC charging source.
The last type is a random charge. This is when a random charge is applied to something. This is because the power is coming from a source that can’t be controlled completely.
For example, the alternator works based on how fast the engine is going, so it provides a different charge at different times. Another instance is solar power where the sun is at different levels at different times.
The random charge is pretty common but generally isn’t used for charging batteries in most cases.
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So, now you know all the basic types for charging a battery. You know the nine common battery charging types and how they work.
You also now know the benefits and negatives of each one. Whenever you need to charge a battery, you should be able to pick out the best battery charging type for your needs.
Over time and use batteries go dead and then they need to be charged. The longer a battery sits without being used, the more it will drain. This is especially true in extreme temperature areas.
Even AGM batteries, which are top quality, will need to be charged at some point. When it comes time to charge an AGM battery, what voltage should you use?
Well, after reading this you will know and then be able to choose the right charger for your battery and charging situation.
Before getting into voltage we will give a fast break down of what happens in the battery when it needs to be charged. In an AGM battery, you have absorbed glass matts, and they hold the electrolyte mixture that holds the charge.
You also have metal plates. As time passes the sulfur in the electrolyte sticks and builds up onto these metal plates. When this happens, the electrons are trapped and can’t move thru the battery. That is why it has a low charge.
A charger sends pulses into the battery, and these pulses help break the sulfur build up off the plates. The sulfur is restored into the electrolyte which is held on the glass matts in an AGM battery, and this restores the charge to the battery.
As the battery ages though some of the sulfur is lost or stuck permanently to the matts and this is why batteries eventually go bad.
So, now that you understand the basics of how charging works, what voltage should you use? Well, picking the right voltage is pretty easy.
Voltage is the amount of energy that is going into the battery, and you want the voltage to be equal to the voltage of the battery when choosing a charger.
This means if you have a 12-volt battery, then you would want to get a best 12v battery charger. It is that simple when it comes to the voltage of making sure that the voltage matches the voltage of the battery.
Some chargers have switches, and you can change the voltage that is being put of by the charger. These are nice, especially if you have multiple batteries of different voltages around.
That way you can use the same charger for all your batteries. Just make sure you change it to the right voltage setting when switching your batteries out.
If figuring out the voltage to use is as simple as matching it to the voltage of the battery, then what makes charging an AGM battery different from others? Well, we have an article available for you about that, but the key part is to use lower Amps with an AGM battery.
For the full explanation of why you can read the other article, but amps is the speed at which the current is being applied to the battery.
To prevent heat and to overcharge it is better to apply the charge slower with AGM batteries. This has to do with how they are made.
In the other article, we also cover if it is necessary to use an AGM charger or if a standard battery charger will work with AGM batteries.
AGM batteries don’t need to be charged as much as other batteries, but they do still need to be charged. You should test them, and once they start getting down to 10,5 volts or so, you should load them.
You should keep your battery on a maintainer when it is not being used for long periods and this will help it not lose its charge and will help the battery last longer.
AGM batteries do still need to be charged like other batteries, but they hold their charge better so don’t need to be charged as often. When loading an AGM battery, it is important to remember to use a charger with lower amps.
For the voltage of the charger to use it is simple to figure out. When charging any better, you want to make sure the energy of the charger matches the voltage of the battery.
That is not just true for AGM batteries but is a rule for all batteries. The voltage is how much power is being put out, and amps are the speed at which it is being put out.
To charge a battery properly, the voltage needs to be the same as the battery being charged. If it is less than the battery being charged, then it won’t charge all the way, and if it is more, then it will damage the battery.
It is that simple to make sure the two voltages match when determining what voltage to charge your AGM battery at.